Are there any USB-C sockets out?

Sorry just to quote part P. You can install a replacement socket. Although I would add you should be competent (here is where it is woolly). It should be a straightforward diy job however read up on it all first.

Q5: What types of electrical work are 'non-notifiable'?
The following types of work are non-notifiable:
Replacing accessories such as socket-outlets, control switches and ceiling roses
Replacing the cable for a single circuit only, where damaged, for example, by fire, rodent or impact (1)
Re-fixing or replacing the enclosures of existing installation components (2)
Providing mechanical protection to existing fixed installations (3)
Installing or upgrading main or supplementary equipotential bonding (4)
Work that is not in a kitchen or special location and does not involve a special installation (5) and consists of:
- adding lighting points (light fittings and switches) to an existing circuit (6)
- adding socket-outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit (6)

Notes:
(1) On condition that the replacement cable has the same current-carrying capacity, follows the same route and does not serve more than one sub-circuit through a distribution board;
(2) If the circuit's protective measures are unaffected;
(3) If the circuit's protective measures and current-carrying capacity of conductors are unaffected by increased thermal insulation;
(4) Such work shall comply with other applicable legislation, such as the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations;
(5) Special locations and installations are listed below;
(6) Only if the existing circuit protective device is suitable and provides protection for the modified circuit, and other relevant safety provisions are satisfactory.

Special locations and installations (5):
Locations containing a bath tub or shower basin
Swimming pools or paddling pools
Hot air saunas
Electric floor or ceiling heating systems
Garden lighting or power installations
Solar photovoltaic (PV) power supply systems
Small scale generators such as micro-CHP units
Extra-low voltage lighting installations, other than pre-assembled, CE-marked lighting sets

Note: See Guidance Note 7 which gives more guidance on achieving safe installations where risks to people are greater.
Q6: How will Part P apply to DIY work?
Part P will apply to all electrical work in dwellings, whether carried out by professionals or DIYers.
Some DIY work will require the submission of a building notice to the local authority and the payment of a building control fee.
Some minor electrical work will not be notifiable (see above). Examples include adding a lighting or power point to an existing circuit, adding a spur to an existing circuit or replacing a light fitting.

Better buy, if design appropriate - 3.1A. 2 for £14. Bizarrely one costs£12.99. Put 2 in basket to get price.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2g-sp-switched-socket-3-1a-2g-usb-charger-white/4087p?_requestid=263442

If you need to ask, leave to an electrician. :smiley:

Bought one of these a year back, used the USB sockets once. Drawer junk ON YOUR WALL.

You can buy extension leads with usb sockets included , so I don't need these/Op,s as I just plug the extension in the wall and turn it on when needed. An electrical device only draws the power that it needs so I cannot see that being a problem with charging phones.

What I dont understand is, if these are switched sockets , surely the switch controls the 3 pin and the usb ?
If not why not ? .

Make sure you have content and building insurance before going on holidays, in case if you forget to switch this thing off.

Not sure about these, but the ones I had the USB ports were always live. The switch only killed power to the 3-pin sockets.

Not sure why an iPhone wouldn't charge. As I've posted before, I have this exact model and it charges my iPhone 6+ fine, even from dead.

Bought one of these and fitted it about a year ago. Makes life a lot easier, especially for guests!

The only thing I would say is that these need a transformer for the USB ports so are constantly on and using electricity. Apparently its only 0.000075 kW/h which I guess is 50p a year or thereabouts (someone can correct me if I'm way off).

Just in case anyone was interested! :smiley:

I got the LAP ones for a different purpose to most here - I have a few locations where there are permanently connected USB-powered low-current devices... these are a treat for those locations where a normal charger doesn't end up taking a socket all to itself.

excellent!!cheers!!

Would also say from experience of these that the 2.1A version (in my case at least) worked fine for recharging:

Samsumg Tablet
Samsung Galaxy S6
PS4 Controllers
Xbox One Controllers

However they did not charge the iPad or iPhone - when using a decent cable - even on trickle charge.

i wouldnt bother buying the 2.1A sockets. most devices now have fast charge and these just not powerful enough.

You mean like plugging the charger into the socket?

Good price but as USB-c becomes more popular these will become obsolete quite quickly.

10 mins to fit, buy a tester on Ebay if you're unsure and as someone has said above make sure you turn off the main consumer unit switch

how hard are these to fit?

can you fit these yourself or do you need an electrician

Before touching a screwdriver you should trip the biggest switch on your mains circuit breaker.



I installed similar sockets in January but have since removed them. They were always warm to the touch even when not used. Could not go on holiday worrying if they were safe. Ideally they should only be powered when a USB plug is inserted, ones I had were always on.

Also had second thoughts after reading about the risks uncovered in lab tests by electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk. Every plug failed on some aspect tested.

You would be going some to remove yourself from the gene pool with 230V although I bet some silly **** has done it somewhere.

The girls at work messing around with damaged three-phase sockets, however...

Not sure it is worth mentioning, re overpopulation, natural selection...
:smirk:

I have this exact model and don't find it slow to charge. I've only ever done one device at a time, but my iPhone 6+ charges rapidly, certainly not an overnight job.

Already answered many times, why the ott post?

That's one way of putting it ...

In all this advising, everyone has tended to forget one CRUCIAL 'minor' detail?.

UNLESS ofcourse you know for 100% sure what your doing, it's advisable important best practice to turn off at the Electrics in your Junction Box the Power Fuse first!, eg. the bit that directly relates to the Electric Wall Sockets in your House, etc?.

So as not to end up having a very painful electric shock, and/or end up electrocuting yourselves, etc, etc, etc?, or whatever .....

Thought worth mentioning?. :-)

A quick google images search will clarify things. Search USB C computer to see the difference.

Yes apple are great at that, getting rid of connections and such. You just end up paying for adaptors and carrying just as much weight or taking up more if not the same space in your back.

you can buy 2 all day long for £10,so not much saving, al wait, till there 2 for £5,,it will happen

decent price but I would not bother with 2.1 get 3.1 instead

2.1 is so slow, I had to get them because I was looking at costs. it takes ages to charge any device up
like an overnight job!

No discussion on safety of these plus they on continuously using electricity. I'm no expert. Views anyone?

Sorry just to quote part P. You can install a replacement socket. Although I would add you should be competent (here is where it is woolly). It should be a straightforward diy job however read up on it all first.

Q5: What types of electrical work are 'non-notifiable'?
The following types of work are non-notifiable:
Replacing accessories such as socket-outlets, control switches and ceiling roses
Replacing the cable for a single circuit only, where damaged, for example, by fire, rodent or impact (1)
Re-fixing or replacing the enclosures of existing installation components (2)
Providing mechanical protection to existing fixed installations (3)
Installing or upgrading main or supplementary equipotential bonding (4)
Work that is not in a kitchen or special location and does not involve a special installation (5) and consists of:
- adding lighting points (light fittings and switches) to an existing circuit (6)
- adding socket-outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit (6)

Notes:
(1) On condition that the replacement cable has the same current-carrying capacity, follows the same route and does not serve more than one sub-circuit through a distribution board;
(2) If the circuit's protective measures are unaffected;
(3) If the circuit's protective measures and current-carrying capacity of conductors are unaffected by increased thermal insulation;
(4) Such work shall comply with other applicable legislation, such as the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations;
(5) Special locations and installations are listed below;
(6) Only if the existing circuit protective device is suitable and provides protection for the modified circuit, and other relevant safety provisions are satisfactory.

Special locations and installations (5):
Locations containing a bath tub or shower basin
Swimming pools or paddling pools
Hot air saunas
Electric floor or ceiling heating systems
Garden lighting or power installations
Solar photovoltaic (PV) power supply systems
Small scale generators such as micro-CHP units
Extra-low voltage lighting installations, other than pre-assembled, CE-marked lighting sets

Note: See Guidance Note 7 which gives more guidance on achieving safe installations where risks to people are greater.
Q6: How will Part P apply to DIY work?
Part P will apply to all electrical work in dwellings, whether carried out by professionals or DIYers.
Some DIY work will require the submission of a building notice to the local authority and the payment of a building control fee.
Some minor electrical work will not be notifiable (see above). Examples include adding a lighting or power point to an existing circuit, adding a spur to an existing circuit or replacing a light fitting.

USB-C has been designed to phase out USB-A connectors.
Apple are the first to remove them. See the new Macbook Pro.
There's no need to have both other than for backwards compatibility.
It will take a long time to achieve that goal though, and wireless technologies will likely have overtaken long before that happens.

I bought 4 of these a few weeks ago when they were £10 for two -

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-sp-2-gang-switched-socket-usb-charger-port-white/1204f

One went bang (literally, I was sat next to it) within 24 hrs, complete with burning smell...so not convinced on the safety aspects!

​It is one one end the business end into your mobile or tablet, the other end remains as today

I've got a One Plus 3T which has USB-C and it's just standard USB-A on one end and C on the other, so can't see how these sockets will become obsolete quickly.

oops what's that burning smell

although easy to fit (like for like wiring ) under new part p regs you cannot fit these yourself - only qualified electricians

gosh people really trying to demonise these I think they are good for me and use hardly any electricity in a year

Virtually the same price (£9.99 rather than £9.98) for a 2-pack at Argos which may be more readily accessible for most. This seems to be the 'normal' price so not quite a hot deal...

http://www.argos.co.uk/product/5586220

I have the 2.1amp in kitchen that's just to slow to charge phones. I bought another that's 3.1amp for lounge and that's charges fine although the touch screen on the phones won't work while charging. Static apparently I read... Im not a fan of these. Buy a decent 4 port charger for £12 ish.

check it's 2.1 not 3.1

yes well said

Better buy, if design appropriate - 3.1A. 2 for £14. Bizarrely one costs£12.99. Put 2 in basket to get price.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2g-sp-switched-socket-3-1a-2g-usb-charger-white/4087p?_requestid=263442