Looking for a new shower and came across this in my local Home base.
For a 10.5 kW this is an absolute steal!
The Amber shower is easy to install due to its multiple pipe and cable entry points and is exceptional value for money. Available in white or black finish. Suitable for use in the Republic of Ireland. Please note; a 15mm x 15mm brass compression fitting MUST be used to connect to the inlet of the shower.
13 comments
philjstephenson
15 Dec 164#1
worth remembering that this is 10.5kw, so you may need to upgrade your cabling if you only have an 8.5-9.5 currently, always worth asking about it.
eslick to philjstephenson
15 Dec 161#2
But if you don't have the cables upgrade it anyway, big difference in those to the lower versions
jasee
16 Dec 162#3
,
If the circuit has been properly designed, then in the best case, the circuit breaker will open or the fuse will blow.
The problem is that in the worst case, that may not happen
InTheKnow444
16 Dec 16#4
quite expensive to upgrade, so heat to Phil for pointing this out.
realvinner
16 Dec 16#5
Top quality for the price, cabling might need to be upgraded though.
c_bigbear
16 Dec 16#6
if 8.5K shower worked for you, then why get a 10.5K? Must be time of the year.
eslick to c_bigbear
16 Dec 16#7
much more pressure usually
K4SIM to c_bigbear
16 Dec 16#8
The higher the kW, the more pressure you'll get out of the shower.
BigAde
16 Dec 161#9
A 10.5KW shower need 10mm cabling. You'll get away with standard 6mm on the lower rated versions, but running a 10.5kW shower through 6mm cabling is asking for trouble. While it's unlikely to immediately trip or fail, the cabling will run warmer than it should... at best reducing the lifespan of the cable, at worst causing a fire. Just don't do it.
jasee
17 Dec 16#10
The water coming out will be hotter, kilowatt is power equals heat in this case
Mikiex
22 Mar 17#11
The pressure of the water coming out of the shower head is dictated by the pressure of the incoming water and how fast the shower can heat that water to the selected temperature.
If you have an 8KW shower and the water coming out slows down when you turn the heat up, buying a 10KW shower would allow the water to be heated faster and not slow down the water coming out at the same temp.....
So the KW can directly affect the pressure of the water coming out of the shower. You also need to factor in that the water temp in winter means more KW are required.
jasee
22 Mar 17#12
The thermostatic control in these types of showers just works by reducing or increasing the flow of water to maintain the temperature so yes if you set the same temperature with a higher wattage shower then the water pressure will be greater at the same temperature (of course).
Or you can have the same amount coming out at a higher temperature.
However (as some others have said) the important thing is that if the cabling is not sufficiently thick then a significant amount to heat will be wasted in the cable, heating it! By significant I mean that in particular the ends connecting to the shower unit itself may melt causing a short circuit. At the ends, the copper connections expand and contract heating and cooling eventually causing sparking and more damage to the cable.I've seen this.
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Opening post
For a 10.5 kW this is an absolute steal!
The Amber shower is easy to install due to its multiple pipe and cable entry points and is exceptional value for money. Available in white or black finish. Suitable for use in the Republic of Ireland. Please note; a 15mm x 15mm brass compression fitting MUST be used to connect to the inlet of the shower.
13 comments
If the circuit has been properly designed, then in the best case, the circuit breaker will open or the fuse will blow.
The problem is that in the worst case, that may not happen
If you have an 8KW shower and the water coming out slows down when you turn the heat up, buying a 10KW shower would allow the water to be heated faster and not slow down the water coming out at the same temp.....
So the KW can directly affect the pressure of the water coming out of the shower. You also need to factor in that the water temp in winter means more KW are required.
Or you can have the same amount coming out at a higher temperature.
However (as some others have said) the important thing is that if the cabling is not sufficiently thick then a significant amount to heat will be wasted in the cable, heating it! By significant I mean that in particular the ends connecting to the shower unit itself may melt causing a short circuit. At the ends, the copper connections expand and contract heating and cooling eventually causing sparking and more damage to the cable.I've seen this.