Not a bad deal on 5 LED BC bulbs. Cool also available for same price.
Top comments
crazylegs
19 Oct 1541#3
Isn't this what bulbs should be anyway, I find the lighting industry since LED bulbs have been introduced has become all a big ripoff, I mean c'mon 6 to 8 quid for a bulb?
Oh the manufacturers tell us you get your money back over the life of the bulb, yeah right!
I would need too just to break even with the cost of some bulbs in the shops, anyway I don't buy into all this LED garbage and stick to me standard energy savers at about a quid each, they seem to last me about 10 years anyway!
u0421793
19 Oct 1526#21
Candle LEDs
Aha, the candle ones are an interesting exception. Quite often the candle ones consist of an LED emitter firing upwards into a polished conical reflector, which does the job of spreading the beam out, and then when it hits the diffusing outer cover, it appears to be a lot less directional. The LED emitter can’t really help being directional in its unadorned state — it is nearly the same technology as a solid state laser. Diffusing helps spread the beam away from directionality and in the case of decorative bulbs, reflection plus diffusion helps more.
CFL disappointment
Interestingly, on the topic of CFL opinions, there’s partly a technological aspect in play here, but also a social aspect. A lot of people have poor opinions of compact fluorescent lights (CFL). Ironically, it is the people who first moved to fit them a long time ago, who were the first to be dissatisfied. If you fitted CFLs about a decade or so ago, you saved a lot of money on power expenditure since, but you also obtained earlier generation CFLs which were exactly as people say — slow to turn on, slow to reach useful brightness, poor colour rendition, and all those other downsides. The upside is that they last a long time. A very long time. In fact, they’re still up and running! Those old slow warm up, low colour rendering index, unhappy looking lights are still deployed, still working and still irritating everyone.
Advances have been made in CFLs to the point that if one were to replace a decades-old CFL with a fresh one purchased today, one would be quite surprised at the difference. Today’s CFLs from a good manufacturer will turn on pretty nearly almost immediately (with a forgivable but really hardly noticeable pause), and start at quite near a maximum brightness, ramping up to true maximum over the next few minutes. This is not like the old ones which started with a prolonged pause, began at less than half perceived brightness and slowly got to maximum by which time you didn’t need the light on and turned it off again.
On colour
The colour rendering index (CRI) of compact fluorescent lights is another improved area not much talked about. As a photographer in the ’80s and ’90s, I knew that you had to balance the colour from fluorescent tubes otherwise everything turned out a horrible greenish on daylight film. This is a function of the narrow bandwidth of emission across the spectrum which, when hitting the phosphors coated on the inside of the tube, converted into visible light, but not covering a nice even band of colours, rather, having odd peaks here and there, and large gaps of no energy emission at all here and there. The result was that they lit up, yes, but the light quality was unnatural. Today’s CFLs are far better.
I even have a set of big daylight CFLs (each 135W, each gives an equivalent light output to a 600W halogen flood) which I use for video work and can be used for photo work (but if you’re shooting handheld you’ll need lower shutter speeds and wider apertures than I’m used to with the far higher instantaneous pulse energy of a set of studio flash). By daylight, it means they have a colour temperature of 5500K which is equivalent to the bright sunny natural whiteness of a nice summer-ish day outdoors. This was unheard of a decade before! The phosphor CRI improvements of today’s CFLs mean that I can shoot pictures of people and the skin tones turn out far more rich and natural than they would have done decades ago.
In conclusion
The fault of CFLs having such a reputation is partly a function of their long life, then. The old rubbish ones still keep working!
Jonnyblock
19 Oct 1514#2
Are these for your "normal" bayonet room fittings?
I get a little confused by all the different bulb types available.
You could say in that respect I'm a bit dim!
nomnomnomnom
19 Oct 1512#10
I knew this would be a LAP product before I even clicked it.
I've had so many of these fail it's unreal. I fitted my entire house with energy saving bulbs, mostly from LAP, and almost all of them died within a year. Replaced with more more expensive Phillips ones and not a single failure (and loads more light).
I really can't recommend LAP products.
All comments (137)
Typey1
19 Oct 152#1
Good price and 3yr guarantee
Billythebubble to Typey1
19 Oct 15#55
Better hope your thermal receipt doesn't fade away otherwise your guarantee will be gone!
Jonnyblock
19 Oct 1514#2
Are these for your "normal" bayonet room fittings?
I get a little confused by all the different bulb types available.
You could say in that respect I'm a bit dim!
Steve Mac to Jonnyblock
19 Oct 151#7
It says BC in the cap fitting type so looks like it.
jdm01 to Jonnyblock
19 Oct 152#8
Yes, normal Bayonet fitting - These are normally classed as Bayonet or BC in the description of the bulbs.
Hope this helps
amour3k to Jonnyblock
19 Oct 15#60
Hahahahahahahah, either that, OR the OP could mention such in either their Product Title, &/or Product Description too ..... lool. :-)
crazylegs
19 Oct 1541#3
Isn't this what bulbs should be anyway, I find the lighting industry since LED bulbs have been introduced has become all a big ripoff, I mean c'mon 6 to 8 quid for a bulb?
Oh the manufacturers tell us you get your money back over the life of the bulb, yeah right!
I would need too just to break even with the cost of some bulbs in the shops, anyway I don't buy into all this LED garbage and stick to me standard energy savers at about a quid each, they seem to last me about 10 years anyway!
coerce86 to crazylegs
19 Oct 15#41
That's the point, If they're selling 1/4 as many as they last as long they're going to sell them at 4x the price so they can sustain their sales and profits
friar_chris to crazylegs
19 Oct 15#50
If you work the numbers, the cost of a the lightbulb is practically negligible with the cost of the electricity they consume over 30,000 hours. The efficiency saving more more more than compensate you for even a £20 LED bulb.
joedastudd to crazylegs
19 Oct 15#76
Going energy saving to led makes less sense but old school or halogen to led makes a big saving.
At 1/8th the energy on 60w bulb is around 0.88p saving per hour (at 17p kWh). So around 680 hours before they pay for themselves at £6 each. At £2/bulb its around 225 hours. If the light is on for 8h per day that's less then a month before its paid for itself.
Yep that's £2/month saving per bulb if you have them on 8h/day. £24/year. Times the amount of bulbs in your house and they make a hell of a lot of sense.
splender to crazylegs
20 Oct 15#86
You have to thank the Chinese to bring these bulbs to less than £2. Otherwise the big brand names like Philips, Osram, etc expect to charge £5 plus for them for the British and European brand management.
most of my osram are 10w and kick out 806 lumens so these are the same but will be a cheaper build quality, and 5 for a tenner makes it a no brainer to fit these in places like toilets and cupboards. One is destined for the upstairs toilet and will be on 8pm to 8am for the kids so i will know after a few weeks if they are up to the job.
Cfl energy saving bulbs are just awful, too dim take an age to "warm up" & just horrible.
Halogen standard bulbs the replacement for std incandescents are expensive & don't last very long.
Led bulbs are expensive, directional light & crap
About time led bulbs did a decent job.
patg2005 to Rich44
19 Oct 1511#11
[b]Led bulbs are expensive, directional light & crap
About time led bulbs did a decent job.[/quote]
I couldn't disagree more. I have 3 candle type leds in my living room. Identical to incandescants to look at, indentical light and spread of light, in short indistinguishable except they are 5w not 40/60w! LEDs are the solution in most applications for domestic and they don't fry the fittings with waste heat!
CardboardCutout to Rich44
19 Oct 15#28
Elaborate on crap, because every single light controlled by wall switches has an LED bulb in and they're fantastic.
nomnomnomnom
19 Oct 1512#10
I knew this would be a LAP product before I even clicked it.
I've had so many of these fail it's unreal. I fitted my entire house with energy saving bulbs, mostly from LAP, and almost all of them died within a year. Replaced with more more expensive Phillips ones and not a single failure (and loads more light).
I really can't recommend LAP products.
GoNz017 to nomnomnomnom
19 Oct 153#13
25% failure rate within a month on the Lap GU10 5w I fitted to the kitchen. If it wasn't for the warranty I would have given up and returned them all by now. If the 5%w GU10 come on sale I will grab a pack of spares, GU10 LED have a hard time removing the heat so I hope these last longer.
Worst ever have to be IKEA, 100% failure :confused:
Besford to nomnomnomnom
19 Oct 151#14
I hope you took them back? If retailers get away with selling rubbish them we only have ourselves to blame.
TheBiker to nomnomnomnom
19 Oct 15#79
I recently spent £80 on LAP bulbs and the packaging clearly states 2 years guarantee. Have kept receipts so will be back at Screwfix if they fail <2 years.
Besford
19 Oct 15#12
This is 806 lm from 8.7W consumption but the 10W input ones only show 810lm - does that make sense?
GoNz017
19 Oct 15#15
10% more efficient, why shouldn't it make sense?
I was merely responding to you asking if they are not very efficient when they are compared to one of the leading manufacturers offerings that I have several of throughout my house.
Depends on the LED's, circuitry etc.
they are still Lap so expect to use the warranty!
GoNz017
19 Oct 15#16
yes, walk in and swap them, I did say if any more go they are all being returned but I seem to have got rid of the bad ones.
But they are cheap so you get what you pay for!
If you are not happy go buy 5 Osrams/Philips and pay £40-£50 for the same things that will probably last out it's warranty.
Mine are going in 2 toilets, a pantry and the cupboard under the stairs so it is a bargain to replace my remaining fluorescent slow to come up to full brightness and less efficient offerings.
GlasWolf
19 Oct 153#18
If you want something of better quality then B&Q are doing a pack of 3 x Philips LED bulbs for £10 (40W equavalent) or £12 (60W equivalent).
tolester to GlasWolf
19 Oct 15#33
Is this instore only - cant see anything on their website. Am interested in the 3 pack for £12 if bayonet fitting. Any more info on these thx
fishmaster
19 Oct 15#19
Since all bulbs fail, how do you denote failure? It must be within a specific time frame, less than the warranty period I would guess?
ansarch
19 Oct 152#20
5w = 50w pack of 12 available for £11.90 on eBay if some one is thinking on bulk buy. Also come with 2 years guarantee
u0421793
19 Oct 1526#21
Candle LEDs
Aha, the candle ones are an interesting exception. Quite often the candle ones consist of an LED emitter firing upwards into a polished conical reflector, which does the job of spreading the beam out, and then when it hits the diffusing outer cover, it appears to be a lot less directional. The LED emitter can’t really help being directional in its unadorned state — it is nearly the same technology as a solid state laser. Diffusing helps spread the beam away from directionality and in the case of decorative bulbs, reflection plus diffusion helps more.
CFL disappointment
Interestingly, on the topic of CFL opinions, there’s partly a technological aspect in play here, but also a social aspect. A lot of people have poor opinions of compact fluorescent lights (CFL). Ironically, it is the people who first moved to fit them a long time ago, who were the first to be dissatisfied. If you fitted CFLs about a decade or so ago, you saved a lot of money on power expenditure since, but you also obtained earlier generation CFLs which were exactly as people say — slow to turn on, slow to reach useful brightness, poor colour rendition, and all those other downsides. The upside is that they last a long time. A very long time. In fact, they’re still up and running! Those old slow warm up, low colour rendering index, unhappy looking lights are still deployed, still working and still irritating everyone.
Advances have been made in CFLs to the point that if one were to replace a decades-old CFL with a fresh one purchased today, one would be quite surprised at the difference. Today’s CFLs from a good manufacturer will turn on pretty nearly almost immediately (with a forgivable but really hardly noticeable pause), and start at quite near a maximum brightness, ramping up to true maximum over the next few minutes. This is not like the old ones which started with a prolonged pause, began at less than half perceived brightness and slowly got to maximum by which time you didn’t need the light on and turned it off again.
On colour
The colour rendering index (CRI) of compact fluorescent lights is another improved area not much talked about. As a photographer in the ’80s and ’90s, I knew that you had to balance the colour from fluorescent tubes otherwise everything turned out a horrible greenish on daylight film. This is a function of the narrow bandwidth of emission across the spectrum which, when hitting the phosphors coated on the inside of the tube, converted into visible light, but not covering a nice even band of colours, rather, having odd peaks here and there, and large gaps of no energy emission at all here and there. The result was that they lit up, yes, but the light quality was unnatural. Today’s CFLs are far better.
I even have a set of big daylight CFLs (each 135W, each gives an equivalent light output to a 600W halogen flood) which I use for video work and can be used for photo work (but if you’re shooting handheld you’ll need lower shutter speeds and wider apertures than I’m used to with the far higher instantaneous pulse energy of a set of studio flash). By daylight, it means they have a colour temperature of 5500K which is equivalent to the bright sunny natural whiteness of a nice summer-ish day outdoors. This was unheard of a decade before! The phosphor CRI improvements of today’s CFLs mean that I can shoot pictures of people and the skin tones turn out far more rich and natural than they would have done decades ago.
In conclusion
The fault of CFLs having such a reputation is partly a function of their long life, then. The old rubbish ones still keep working!
8ddy
19 Oct 15#22
Great. Hot :sunglasses:
89quidyoucantgowrong
19 Oct 15#23
£2 a pop for 806lm LED lamps with 3 year guarantee from a reputable retailer? Bargain. The high comparable lumens per watt is a bonus, if true. Hot.
sancheez
19 Oct 151#24
10 years ago maybe. You can get decent ones nowadays.
My house is a mix of CFL, LED & halogen. I only use halogen in the areas I seldom use the overhead spotlights.
Philips CFL bulbs ..... great. Non-Philips ones, not so good. LED's .... Osram & Philips, great. Ikea, not so great. Ebay cheapos, terrible - complete waste of money.
XNET
19 Oct 15#25
bought a 3 watt one from the pound shop, still working after 6 months in the porch, on for About 10hrs every day
My next door neighbour is an amateur ham radio enthusiast and has noticed that a lot of the LED bulbs give out a lot of interference totally killing DAB radio.
Another hidden downside of LED lights, don't suppose anybody knows if these mess up DAB radio?
I once had a tv remote that was scared of the dark, used to stop working when it got dark.. Turned out it was the CFL bulb in the lounge lamp.
friar_chris to kiora_nas
19 Oct 15#52
Maybe they are Li-Fi enabled.
LED's are low voltage devices so there will be a (cheap) switch-mode power supply inside to step down the voltage from the lighting cirucit. These will give off noise. Similar effects might be found with (cheap) mobile phone chargers. I wouldn't mind betting there is some sort of correlation between the colour, power input and the frequency of the DAB stations being listened to. If you buy more expensive LED bulbs with higher quality transformers in, they are probably more efficient and do not emit as much interference or have these used frequencies filtered out. For lamps, try to avoid plugging the lamp into the same socket (or double socket) as the radio. Interference should be very localised, so you can also try to keep these devices apart as much as possible. Otherwise buy branded, better quality ones to stand the best chances of not suffering from interference.
ro53ben
19 Oct 152#29
Main problem with LED bulbs like this is that most of them are not dimmable.
swarnford
19 Oct 151#30
My led outdoor spotlights interfere with the radio that's for sure
Steve Mac
19 Oct 15#31
Good deal but was put off by the comments about them failing often, voted hot for the price though. Just nipped into Costco and they had an equivalent pack of 3 there for £8 odd (different brand) so took a punt.
Jiwani80
19 Oct 15#32
Thanks
moneysavingkitten
19 Oct 15#34
Are Phillips really that good? Spent £8 on one clear dimable bulb and it makes a buzzing sound. Does my head in.
Emailed them. They claim it's not faulty, their bulbs only work in approved light fittings. There aren't many and it says nothing about this on the pack.
ro53ben to moneysavingkitten
19 Oct 15#38
It's like a compatibility issue with your dimmer switch.
GlasWolf
19 Oct 151#35
Yes, instore only I think - they were on a pallet near the entrance. Don't know if it's national though. The packs were all mixed together so I had to rummage to find bayonets (probably because people had taken the obvious ones), but they were available. I think there were globes, candles and downlighter bulbs available.
Avalon-One
19 Oct 15#36
Paid about this for them when they launched them over a year ago. Decent enough light output, very well made and heavy compared to the Aldi versions i've got at home. The ones that ended up at work ran 12hrs a day without issue and we had zero failures so far. At this kind of money it's rude not to buy a pack.
gemignani
19 Oct 15#37
£5 delivery btw.
kamania
19 Oct 15#39
I was looking for more around 3000K but what the heck... bought it anyway :smiley:
nomnomnomnom
19 Oct 15#40
I did yes and Screwfix were brilliant. The guy behind the counter did say they have LAP stuff returned fairly often, but it's normally cheaper than the other stuff.
moneysavingkitten
19 Oct 15#42
They're really not fit for purpose. There's only about 10 or 15 recommended light fittings for that bulb and even those they admit don't work 100% properly at all light levels.
Besides that I am using it with a lamp with only three brightness settings. It should say on the packet not suitable for use in lamps, if so few switches are supported.
But it doesn't, it just says dimmable bulb e14. How am I supposed to know it only works in a select few lights from that?
Previously to this I was under the impression only cheap badly made bulbs buzzed. Seems like a cop out to me.
RowanDDR
19 Oct 15#43
CRI not stated? Guess what - you're buying am LED bulb that will give nasty light.
Philips do some LED bulbs of decent brightness and CRI (80+). They're reassuringly expensive.
UltraMagnus to RowanDDR
19 Oct 15#73
I would call 80 pretty rubbish, Old incandescents have a CRI of 100, and help heat your house.
theshabster
19 Oct 15#44
Took a punt and went for a pack of the cool white ones as warm white had sold out in my local. They can't be any worse than our standard bulbs, but if they are then I'll return them.
Thanks OP.
Besford to theshabster
19 Oct 15#45
Cool white OK in kitchen, bathroom, office; horrible anywhere you'd rather relax such as living room or bedroom.
bargainhunter73
19 Oct 15#46
Are you using a trailing edge LED dimmer switch with your dimmable LED lamps?. If you are using an old conventional dimmer switch - i.e one which probably uses a schematic designed back in 1985 for filament lamps and well before LED lamps had even been thought about, then look on the back of the actual dimmer switch unit. It will probably say something like 60w - 300w (or similar)
This means
minimum load = 60 watts
maximum load = 300 watts
Add up the wattage of the LED's lamps that the dimmer is controlling, Is the minimum load of the connected LED lamps at least meeting the minimum load shown on your dimmer switch? (in this example 60 watts), if not then that is where your problem is, and it won't go away until you fit the proper hardware. Unfortunately in the days of filament lamps one or two bulbs was often enough to meet the minimum load required by the dimmer, in the days of LED's, well you will probably need seven or eight lights to do the same thing. Trailing edge dimmers can work as low as 10w and some even lower at 5w or 6w, so they are designed for LED loads, unlike the ones from 'yesterday', built to control a whole different technology.
Of course LED lamp manufacturers could fit dummy loads into their lamps, to consume 40w or 60w or whatever the minimum of an old style dimmer switch is, however that would create heat issues and also defeat the point of using an Energy Saving lamp in the first place, if your 7w lamp was designed to consume 65w just to make them compatible with dimmer switches which may have been fitted in 1992!.
If you want your LED lamps to dim properly from 0 - 100% without hum, radio interference, flickering or shortening the life of the actual lamp, then you need an LED dimmer switch.
Yes it costs more money (Show me an ecological 'concern' which doesn't !!!!) but hey, its green so thats ok!
jasejames
19 Oct 15#48
I've never quite understood this. Apart for one stupid multicolour remote control thing that failed while sat in its box after three months of non-use, I've *never* had an LED bulb fail on me in five years. Not one. And I've bought all manner of cheap eBay crap, as well as the better stuff.
The only "energy-saving" bulbs that have ever persistently failed early on me have been the dimmable CFLs... and they came from top brands.
theshabster
19 Oct 15#49
We're going to try them in the bedrooms and hallway/landing. We use bedside lamps in the bedroom for a more relaxing tone of light. Another bedroom is used as a dressing room, so cool white may be ideal for this room. The standard filament and halogen bulbs just don't cut it in terms of light output with our current light shades.
haritori
19 Oct 152#51
The LED's at home bargains come in Both Daylight and Warm Light, are dimmable and they have all fittings, I use them and they are brilliant, a 60W equiv at 5W £2.50 each.
benfisher1991
19 Oct 15#53
I got 2 stupid fittings in my house that are energy saving so need BC3 style.
crazylegs
19 Oct 15#54
Not really
I use energy saving anyway at 8w and only cost me about 80 pence each so the cost saving for an LED is far more than my normal CFL energy savers!
118luke
19 Oct 15#56
Bayonet fittings are in decline, probably why these are being sold cheaper...
f3rgy15
19 Oct 15#57
my Bayonet Philips energy saving bulb lasted 5 years, not changed a light bulb for a few years
saj70n
19 Oct 15#58
I order my bulbs direct from China and very cheap too.
saj70n
19 Oct 15#59
always take pictures of thermal receipts and store on PC problem solved
friar_chris
19 Oct 151#61
Really? That must be about equivalent to a 40W bulb - the sort of thing you find in a lava-lamp. You must live in one of those 'bedrooms under the stairs' I keep hearing about on the London News if one of these lights your room adequately.
Regardless, CRL's still waste about 20% of the electricity they transfer, where as LED's are closer to 98%. Over an extended period of time (30,000 hours) your 2W of heat is costing about £6 (10p a kWh). On that basis the average Joe should be happy paying upto £6.80 for one of these LED bulbs.
First site I've found also says that CFL bulbs last about 10,000 hours while LEDs last 50,000 hours. So I'd be happy paying £10.80 + (4x£0.80). So £14 looks good for an LED bulb.
And add on another 80p if you go with these figures:
I believe Wicks CURRENTLY has the answer to the question you seek ..... :-)
amour3k
19 Oct 15#63
Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!, aren't you the 'Electrically Minded' compadre, huh Batman?, hehehehehe.
Its Food for thought still?, thanx. :-)
PumpyJoe4
19 Oct 152#65
I don't understand why anyone buys anything other than LED lights these days.
£2 a bulb is still great value.
The only thing I can partly appreciate is that LEDs are far more customisable (beam angle, light warmth etc) which can be confusing for some, and others who may buy a bulb unsuitable for the purpose they want without realising. eg buying a high lumen 'white light' with a focused beam for a living area.
clarkey1976
19 Oct 152#66
Installed LED BC & ES bulbs from Screwfix around 4 weeks ago and can no longer see the "Dial" whizzing round when the kids leave the lights on!
Far less "Light Policing" going on in my house these days, and I bought the higher 9W bulbs as these werent available at the time and they give off more than enough light.
Total bulb wattage in house is now = 115W..... years gone by this would of been 700W+
Heat from me! :sunglasses:
Supersoul
19 Oct 151#67
The evolution of the light bulb is progressing rapidly... the University of Manchester have created the graphene light bulb and that will be available soon.
moneysavingkitten to Supersoul
19 Oct 15#70
Might hang on to try this, looks interesting :smiley:
Blue70
19 Oct 15#68
Most of my light fittings are now led and this includes a variety of bulbs (GU10, G9, ES, SES & BC).
In my experience they are of a similar quality to the old style filament bulbs but obviously last significantly longer and are unbelievably cheap to run. The first year that I changed all my GU10s in the house (17) I noticed a difference in my electric bill.
I have bought my bulbs mainly from SimplyLed, Ledhut & IKEA. All have proved to be quite durable & reasonably priced. The only bad ones I had were from Amazon and made by a company called Aurora (I think?)
djfuego
19 Oct 15#69
LED FTW!!! All that energy you save in lighting could be put to use elsewhere now :wink:
presterjohn71
19 Oct 151#71
LED is the future. They have come on in leaps and bounds in the last five years. My latest torch shines out an amazing 1100 Lumens compared to my old Maglite's 14 Lumens which is a similar size torch. Halogen bulbs turned out to be a huge disappointment. I remember being told they would last for years and save me a fortune. In reality they were dim, cost a fortune and had the life cycle of a moth. Once I have burned through my giant box of spare Halogen bulbs that where purchased in bulk via an offer I will never by another one of the blooming things again and I will then move to LED.
sotomonkey
19 Oct 15#72
Any good deals on screw ones rather than bayonets?
GoNz017
19 Oct 15#74
whatever i deem reasonable, in this case I hit 25% in 2 months and am now up to 6, I will go another 6 before I am happy.
factor in return postage over popping into screwfix when you are passing to swap a duff one.
Good thing with screwfix is this thing called an account you tend to use so you do not need a receipt as they have the brains to check your purchase history, never took the paperwork back for my GU10 Lap bulbs :smiley:
slannmage
19 Oct 15#75
My problem is they build them to break, LEDs should last years, but these bulbs last months.
K1LLER HORNET
19 Oct 15#77
800 lumens. Too dim imo if it's going to be the main/only bulb on in the room.
Murielson
19 Oct 15#78
Thanks OP, ordered set of qty 5 warm white and qty 5 cool white.
mjbuckhurst
19 Oct 15#80
One thing few people realise CFL lamps have a finite number of on/off cycles which can be in the low 1000s, I have automatic lighting in my house, so found CFL lamps didn't last anything like 8000 hours, whereas some of my LEDs must be getting on for 7 years old and have gone through tens of 1000s of on/off cycles.
mike
jaizan
19 Oct 151#81
That's a coincidence. I've found the IKEA flourescent bulbs failed relatively quickly as well, so stopped buying them years ago.
My first LEDs were 4 branded GU10s from B&Q, with up to 30,000 hours written on the box. One failed within 3 months, so less than 300 hours actual useage. I had to argue for about 20 minutes to get B&Q to agree to a replacement. That was several years ago. No failures since, although the light output is poor by modern standards.
The 4GU10s from Toolstation have lasted about 3 years, no failures.
4GU10s in the kitchen from Interlux -3 or 4 failures to date. [I had 3 replacements sent FOC, then gave up]
3 x Minisun -No failures, very bright, very pleased so far.
maais16
19 Oct 15#82
Thanks, ordered.
crazylegs
19 Oct 15#83
Like I said in real world terms its nothing like that.. My cfl's I have had for something like the last 13 years and still going strong, I have never had to replace one of tem yet in all that time..
The failure rate for LED is far higher and have had loads of people tell me they bought them only for them to only last a fraction of the stated hours before failing and they ended up going back to cheap CFL bulbs as they didn't fancy paying £6 to £8 a bulb for LED replacements all over again, infact they told me there original cfl bulbs were still working perfectly before they replaced with LED because it was the in thing..
The numbers just don't add up and you won't know if they do because the required amount of time hasn't passed yet, its a new technology thats only been out what no longer than about 4 years for residential..
I go by facts not figures made up by manufacturers
My 8w bulbs put out around 55w lumens so don't know where your getting your info from about being in a dimly lit room..
Infact they consume almost the same amount of energy as there LED counterparts at a fraction of their cost!
friar_chris
20 Oct 15#84
You can't say something along the lines of "you would need to wait 4 years before you can ascertain what their lifetime is" and then state the numbers just don't add up. Also, which numbers don't add up? You haven't provided any tangible numbers. 13 years of CFL is about 10,000 hours if they are on for 2 hours a day!
I confess I've only ever had to replace as many as 5 CFL's over a similar time period. They have been in rooms which get lots of usage, so I'm prepared to accept a modern CFL could well have a lifetime of 20,000hours.
As you say near-white LEDs have not been around for anywhere near as long so are very much an unknown quantity if we are ignoring manufacturers lifetimes. However we also need to take notions that all LED bulbs have high failure rates with a pinch of salt too. They don't cost £8 a bulb now either as this forum can testify to, and CFLs are not a fraction of the cost of an LED unless you are literally saying 1/2 is a fraction. £2 vs 80p? I bought 4 LED bulbs a year ago, they are used often (6 hours a day...) and are going strong. This too can be disregarded as anecdotal.
I tend to believe that manufacturers such as Philips would disclose reliable data for their product, and that their data could be trusted for a more expensive product. Cheaper imports which are made to unregulated specifications will be far more hit and miss. Furthermore, just as CFLs have improved over time, reliability rates will be continuing to improve.
My original point was that the cost of electricity is the paramount factor when costing for bulbs. Even if CFLs lasted three times longer than LED bulbs which means throwing out all the stated lifetimes available online (lets say 30,000 for a CFL vs 10,000 for a LED), over 30,000 hours your CFL costs you 80p and £6 more in electricity bills for the heat it wastes. Over the same period, the LEDs will cost you £6 more in replacements. Even when taking an overstated view of the CFL bulb, and when taking a very dim (intended) view of LEDs they are on par, and should the LED last anything over 10,000 hours, they are the better option.
huangxq2
20 Oct 151#85
amazon is doing 4 for 3 from 19/10/2015 to 01/11/2015 on all lighting products sold by amazon directly. Purchase from 3rd party do not qualify.
use code LIGHT4FOR3 at check out.
caroline0
20 Oct 15#87
Thanks,ordered :smiley:
mjbuckhurst
20 Oct 15#88
My oldest LEDs have now been installed for so many years, at least 5 and probably closer than 7, I estimate that a couple have already reached 10000 hours of use and as my lighting is now controlled by computer, I have accurate usage figures for the last year or so, which should mean the estimate is quite accurate.
I still use CFL simply because, like many people, I couldn't resist the 5 for £1 deals, however, my supply is declining rapidly as they're the only ones I'm replacing, even where the on/off cycles are relatively low. The only reliable CFLs I ever had, were the expensive Philips ones bought years ago.
I have bought a couple of 2000+ lumen LED lamps from China, but these failed quite quickly, checking the electronics, it's no wonder, but this is simply the power supply not the LEDs, I could probably replace that and get the lifespan you would expect - but it's not easy, LEDs themselves are built to last, but the driver circuits may not, hence why cheap lamps often fail. I suspect if you really want a long lasting setup, you'd be better off running low voltage lighting and a central driver which could easily and cheaply be replaced.
good price, seem to be £4 each in supermarkets these days
tempus121
20 Oct 15#92
Might seem a daft question but I'm new to led lights and thinking of switching all lights to them, what's more suited for a house, warm white or cool white and what's the difference?
u0421793 to tempus121
20 Oct 151#94
Warm white is more like the old incandescent (and if taken to an extreme, heading toward a log fire or candlelight in colour, i.e., getting more toward orange and further away from blue). Cool white is more evenly balanced like daylight, with a neutral white.
Now, it really depends what you’re going to do under the light. If it’s just for lolling around in the evening, having dinner, chatting and conversing, everybody watching telly each with a laptop or tablet on the lap so you can all race to wikipedia to look up to see if that actor is still alive, that sort of thing, go for warm white. Cool neutral will disturb your sleep patterns (i.e., you won’t have any). If, on the other hand, you need to actually work, do stuff that requires colour perception such as painting water colours or acrylics (except for Jackson Pollock stuff, that doesn’t matter so much), needlework and scarf knitting, using that overlocker you just bought, cake icing or doing your makeup, go for a cool neutral white.
If you’re doing photography, youtube videos, etc, pick a daylight-coloured light source (which will be typically 5500° Kelvin in colour temperature terms), and if you get the chance, pick one that has a Colour Rendering Index of higher than 95%. A CRI of 80 is okay for just about the house non-critical stuff, but for good natural skin tone rendition on photo and video imaging work, 80% CRI is insufficiently accurate, whereas 95% is more what you’re aiming for. If you’re not capturing images, don’t panic about not having such a high CRI.
Fatal Exception
20 Oct 15#93
Not bad, good to get them from a shop too as I got some cheap ones off Amazon and they all popped within a year. My others (different brands) are all going strong. Much better than standard GU10s and use a fraction of the power.
leon121
20 Oct 151#95
Let there be light
tempus121
20 Oct 151#96
Pretty much my life explained in a light bulb haha, warm white it is then! Thanks for the in depth explanation.
Bugsico
20 Oct 15#97
According to the site, there's a 3 year guarantee.
Trefor
20 Oct 15#98
I have 39 led fittings all 3 watts and never had a failure. Go for proper led fittings cheap as chips now thanks to China. Monthly electric bills only around £20.00 so they soon pay back.
grahamji
20 Oct 15#99
Mietas
20 Oct 15#100
The problem with LED bulbs is that the cheap ones have weak sh*tty light and the good ones are quite expensive.
grahamji
20 Oct 151#101
Cheaper on E-Bay ........ 10 for £16:00 inc P&P .....bought some 3 months ago ..... No problems still going strong ! ! ! Even cheaper if you buy more.
matthewcross2 to grahamji
20 Oct 15#106
where
Pizpott
20 Oct 15#102
is it me or does it say 5 For a tenner which is £2 a bulb which ain't bad, still you cant beat a pound shop. :smiley:
damianiw
20 Oct 15#103
LED is ok but gives me awful headaches and tiredness, maybe they'll improve but took these out and felt much better for it
asbokid to damianiw
22 Oct 15#125
Health problems from LED lamps are potentially much worse. If you believe the early research, there's a risk of blindness and serious eye damage, since LEDs, compared to incandescents, emit far more from the ultra-violet end of the light spectrum. Apparently.
From the FT..
Maybe it's healthier to choose the 'warm' LEDs; which have a yellow disc over the diode to limit the blue elements in the LED light.
jnigel26
20 Oct 15#104
I bought up so many of the old type incandescent bulbs 100w mainly, and 60w, before all this palava of the big CON energy bulbs and led came in. Energy bulbs are at best, crap. Leds are great, and should be inexpensive, but fools and their money eh?
I think my bulk purchases of incandescent bulbs worked out at the time at about 10p each or less.
Think I won hands down.
I have changed 3 so far this year (so lost 30pence so far), and I have our lights on constantly. Sod the green brigade, they're all nuts!
edit
Make that 4 gone. Just went under the stairs cupboard ...light switch on and pop, light went. 60w. Flipped the trip switch. Went to my supply of bulbs - just realise I have a box of 20 E27s (screw type rather than normal bayonet). I'm not likely to need that many so on the bay with them. Bayonet bulb out, 60w, change bulb, all for a measly TEN PEE!!! flick back the trip, light on.
And some idiots think £2 a bulb is a hot deal. LOL
Ah well.
I was in screwfix there and got these but in 4000k and there a great job far brighter than my 2700k duracel that was 7quid a bulb in asda last year, trust me get the 4000k same price for 5 bulbs you won't be disappointed
OB1 to aliboy86
20 Oct 15#108
2700k is the colour of the light, should be pretty much as bright as the 4000k version.
It's a different number that tells you the brightness (lumens).
myghost
20 Oct 15#109
You Sir a fool, or even a tool
Blue70
20 Oct 15#110
Don't feed the troll!!!!
aliboy86
20 Oct 15#111
the 4000k are brighter the 2700k bulbs I got from asda was a 5w and less leds needed to light up, the 4000k led needs more leds as it's a 8.5w bulb ☺
hieronymous
21 Oct 15#112
(1) I'm trying to find a good deal on LED candle bulbs, bayonet fitting. Can anyone help with a link, please?
(2) Unless I am mistaken, I think some people have said you need special fittings for LED bulbs. Is that true, or will the bulbs go into my existing light fittings?
rabb5it
21 Oct 15#113
I bought some Phillips compact fluorescent bulbs for an eye watering £15 each in 1990, the last one has just broken but hey, that's a 25 life.
olisun
21 Oct 15#114
I got these bulbs yesterday and they are bright BUT I don't think they are true 4000K.
I have got 4000K CFL bulbs in every part of the house and this one stands out from the rest.
These bulbs give out a slight "yellow" tinge.
jayman1986
21 Oct 15#115
not all bulbs fail.. quite a few grow into pretty flowers
Typey1
21 Oct 15#116
Email contains invoice as I paid online
Vegeta
21 Oct 15#117
I got the 2700K bulbs today. They are brighter than 60W IMO. More like 75W. I'm happy with the light they give off even though it is whiter than 2700K incandescent bulbs but not as white as 3000K LEDs.
I bought these yesterday, put one in the bedroom and one in the hall landing. After 3 switches of the bedroom one, it failed, and after approx. 1-2 hours constant use in the hall, it failed. Absolute rubbish!! These will be going back to screwfix as that was not 15,000hrs use or 20,000 switchings as quoted. Not so hot now!!!
macliam to jambalini
22 Oct 15#121
You have a guarantee.
I fitted all 5 a few days back and have had no problems - I've ordered more.
ezeoke
22 Oct 15#120
Got from Banggood for 85p per one and they're are awesome.
bill99
22 Oct 15#122
Anyone know of a descent LED G9 bulb, they seem to be rather expensive even though they're tiny
Billythebubble
22 Oct 15#123
Looking for Mega man GX53 9w lamps......
bill99
22 Oct 15#124
Anyone know of a descent LED G9 bulb, they seem to be rather expensive even though they're tiny
donger
23 Oct 15#126
I ordered + collected a pack of the warm white bulbs. Upon testing, one of them didn't work. I phoned Screwfix to let them know. Within 24 hours they delivered another 5 pack to my address. They also didn't ask for the faulty or original items to be returned. Cheers!
cromarty to donger
23 Oct 15#127
That's good customer service - unlike eBuyer - I ordered a multi pack of Powerline adapters from them. One was faulty - I had to return the whole lot, wait for them to test the faulty one and agree it was defective, then await a redelivery of another set. Very irritating and illogical, what use are the used working ones to them?
winchman
23 Oct 15#128
Maybe they can claim back from the manufacturer if they get a few duff ones.
YOG
23 Oct 15#129
You could always scan a copy to a computer.
lenny3
24 Oct 15#130
Personally I don't want to waste electricity & heat my house in the warmer months.........
u0421793
24 Oct 15#131
By the way, if anyone needs a bit more sensationalism and scaring in their life, there’s a phenomena called “blue light hazard” (look it up), and here’s a report on it: http://ehp.niehs.nih.gov/122-A81/
Now, before you rush off and create a newspaper headline out of it, bear in mind that it hasn’t been shown to have an irreversible effect in humans.
po-low
24 Oct 15#132
Tool station are also doing 5 for £10 if that's closer to anyone. I believe they are only the cool white versions though.
Bought them myself for the landing and under the stairs. so far so good!
simes to po-low
25 Oct 15#133
Toolstation do free delivery on a £10 spend too.
Their 5 for £9.98 bulbs are 10w 810 lumens and the bayonet type show as warm white 3000k ( so they are slightly different to the Screwfix ones) . The same spec on Screwfix are £6.99 each click here to see them
shug119
25 Oct 15#134
Are they any good ?+
wayners
29 Oct 15#135
Picked some up. Heat
asbokid
1 Nov 15#136
We bought these for wall lights; The lights are the type where the bulb sits upright. The bulbs were a quid each from ebay. But were useless compared to incandescents. Because of the bulb design, they cast lots of light upwards, but no light downwards which, alas, is where we wanted it.
Annonym
2 Nov 15#137
I think this is a good deal as I sell led bulbs and.this is near enough my cost price and I sell these for approx £5.00
Opening post
Top comments
Oh the manufacturers tell us you get your money back over the life of the bulb, yeah right!
I would need too just to break even with the cost of some bulbs in the shops, anyway I don't buy into all this LED garbage and stick to me standard energy savers at about a quid each, they seem to last me about 10 years anyway!
Aha, the candle ones are an interesting exception. Quite often the candle ones consist of an LED emitter firing upwards into a polished conical reflector, which does the job of spreading the beam out, and then when it hits the diffusing outer cover, it appears to be a lot less directional. The LED emitter can’t really help being directional in its unadorned state — it is nearly the same technology as a solid state laser. Diffusing helps spread the beam away from directionality and in the case of decorative bulbs, reflection plus diffusion helps more.
CFL disappointment
Interestingly, on the topic of CFL opinions, there’s partly a technological aspect in play here, but also a social aspect. A lot of people have poor opinions of compact fluorescent lights (CFL). Ironically, it is the people who first moved to fit them a long time ago, who were the first to be dissatisfied. If you fitted CFLs about a decade or so ago, you saved a lot of money on power expenditure since, but you also obtained earlier generation CFLs which were exactly as people say — slow to turn on, slow to reach useful brightness, poor colour rendition, and all those other downsides. The upside is that they last a long time. A very long time. In fact, they’re still up and running! Those old slow warm up, low colour rendering index, unhappy looking lights are still deployed, still working and still irritating everyone.
Advances have been made in CFLs to the point that if one were to replace a decades-old CFL with a fresh one purchased today, one would be quite surprised at the difference. Today’s CFLs from a good manufacturer will turn on pretty nearly almost immediately (with a forgivable but really hardly noticeable pause), and start at quite near a maximum brightness, ramping up to true maximum over the next few minutes. This is not like the old ones which started with a prolonged pause, began at less than half perceived brightness and slowly got to maximum by which time you didn’t need the light on and turned it off again.
On colour
The colour rendering index (CRI) of compact fluorescent lights is another improved area not much talked about. As a photographer in the ’80s and ’90s, I knew that you had to balance the colour from fluorescent tubes otherwise everything turned out a horrible greenish on daylight film. This is a function of the narrow bandwidth of emission across the spectrum which, when hitting the phosphors coated on the inside of the tube, converted into visible light, but not covering a nice even band of colours, rather, having odd peaks here and there, and large gaps of no energy emission at all here and there. The result was that they lit up, yes, but the light quality was unnatural. Today’s CFLs are far better.
I even have a set of big daylight CFLs (each 135W, each gives an equivalent light output to a 600W halogen flood) which I use for video work and can be used for photo work (but if you’re shooting handheld you’ll need lower shutter speeds and wider apertures than I’m used to with the far higher instantaneous pulse energy of a set of studio flash). By daylight, it means they have a colour temperature of 5500K which is equivalent to the bright sunny natural whiteness of a nice summer-ish day outdoors. This was unheard of a decade before! The phosphor CRI improvements of today’s CFLs mean that I can shoot pictures of people and the skin tones turn out far more rich and natural than they would have done decades ago.
In conclusion
The fault of CFLs having such a reputation is partly a function of their long life, then. The old rubbish ones still keep working!
I get a little confused by all the different bulb types available.
You could say in that respect I'm a bit dim!
I've had so many of these fail it's unreal. I fitted my entire house with energy saving bulbs, mostly from LAP, and almost all of them died within a year. Replaced with more more expensive Phillips ones and not a single failure (and loads more light).
I really can't recommend LAP products.
All comments (137)
I get a little confused by all the different bulb types available.
You could say in that respect I'm a bit dim!
Hope this helps
Oh the manufacturers tell us you get your money back over the life of the bulb, yeah right!
I would need too just to break even with the cost of some bulbs in the shops, anyway I don't buy into all this LED garbage and stick to me standard energy savers at about a quid each, they seem to last me about 10 years anyway!
At 1/8th the energy on 60w bulb is around 0.88p saving per hour (at 17p kWh). So around 680 hours before they pay for themselves at £6 each. At £2/bulb its around 225 hours. If the light is on for 8h per day that's less then a month before its paid for itself.
Yep that's £2/month saving per bulb if you have them on 8h/day. £24/year. Times the amount of bulbs in your house and they make a hell of a lot of sense.
(2700K) Warm White here: http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-gls-led-lamps-warm-white-bc-8-7w-pack-of-5/2330j
http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/2-pack-led-lamps-es-homebase-3-93-2303520
are described as:
"rated at 10w so equivalent to 60w incandescent lamps."
Cfl energy saving bulbs are just awful, too dim take an age to "warm up" & just horrible.
Halogen standard bulbs the replacement for std incandescents are expensive & don't last very long.
Led bulbs are expensive, directional light & crap
About time led bulbs did a decent job.
About time led bulbs did a decent job.[/quote]
I couldn't disagree more. I have 3 candle type leds in my living room. Identical to incandescants to look at, indentical light and spread of light, in short indistinguishable except they are 5w not 40/60w! LEDs are the solution in most applications for domestic and they don't fry the fittings with waste heat!
I've had so many of these fail it's unreal. I fitted my entire house with energy saving bulbs, mostly from LAP, and almost all of them died within a year. Replaced with more more expensive Phillips ones and not a single failure (and loads more light).
I really can't recommend LAP products.
Worst ever have to be IKEA, 100% failure :confused:
I was merely responding to you asking if they are not very efficient when they are compared to one of the leading manufacturers offerings that I have several of throughout my house.
Depends on the LED's, circuitry etc.
they are still Lap so expect to use the warranty!
But they are cheap so you get what you pay for!
If you are not happy go buy 5 Osrams/Philips and pay £40-£50 for the same things that will probably last out it's warranty.
Mine are going in 2 toilets, a pantry and the cupboard under the stairs so it is a bargain to replace my remaining fluorescent slow to come up to full brightness and less efficient offerings.
Aha, the candle ones are an interesting exception. Quite often the candle ones consist of an LED emitter firing upwards into a polished conical reflector, which does the job of spreading the beam out, and then when it hits the diffusing outer cover, it appears to be a lot less directional. The LED emitter can’t really help being directional in its unadorned state — it is nearly the same technology as a solid state laser. Diffusing helps spread the beam away from directionality and in the case of decorative bulbs, reflection plus diffusion helps more.
CFL disappointment
Interestingly, on the topic of CFL opinions, there’s partly a technological aspect in play here, but also a social aspect. A lot of people have poor opinions of compact fluorescent lights (CFL). Ironically, it is the people who first moved to fit them a long time ago, who were the first to be dissatisfied. If you fitted CFLs about a decade or so ago, you saved a lot of money on power expenditure since, but you also obtained earlier generation CFLs which were exactly as people say — slow to turn on, slow to reach useful brightness, poor colour rendition, and all those other downsides. The upside is that they last a long time. A very long time. In fact, they’re still up and running! Those old slow warm up, low colour rendering index, unhappy looking lights are still deployed, still working and still irritating everyone.
Advances have been made in CFLs to the point that if one were to replace a decades-old CFL with a fresh one purchased today, one would be quite surprised at the difference. Today’s CFLs from a good manufacturer will turn on pretty nearly almost immediately (with a forgivable but really hardly noticeable pause), and start at quite near a maximum brightness, ramping up to true maximum over the next few minutes. This is not like the old ones which started with a prolonged pause, began at less than half perceived brightness and slowly got to maximum by which time you didn’t need the light on and turned it off again.
On colour
The colour rendering index (CRI) of compact fluorescent lights is another improved area not much talked about. As a photographer in the ’80s and ’90s, I knew that you had to balance the colour from fluorescent tubes otherwise everything turned out a horrible greenish on daylight film. This is a function of the narrow bandwidth of emission across the spectrum which, when hitting the phosphors coated on the inside of the tube, converted into visible light, but not covering a nice even band of colours, rather, having odd peaks here and there, and large gaps of no energy emission at all here and there. The result was that they lit up, yes, but the light quality was unnatural. Today’s CFLs are far better.
I even have a set of big daylight CFLs (each 135W, each gives an equivalent light output to a 600W halogen flood) which I use for video work and can be used for photo work (but if you’re shooting handheld you’ll need lower shutter speeds and wider apertures than I’m used to with the far higher instantaneous pulse energy of a set of studio flash). By daylight, it means they have a colour temperature of 5500K which is equivalent to the bright sunny natural whiteness of a nice summer-ish day outdoors. This was unheard of a decade before! The phosphor CRI improvements of today’s CFLs mean that I can shoot pictures of people and the skin tones turn out far more rich and natural than they would have done decades ago.
In conclusion
The fault of CFLs having such a reputation is partly a function of their long life, then. The old rubbish ones still keep working!
My house is a mix of CFL, LED & halogen. I only use halogen in the areas I seldom use the overhead spotlights.
Philips CFL bulbs ..... great. Non-Philips ones, not so good. LED's .... Osram & Philips, great. Ikea, not so great. Ebay cheapos, terrible - complete waste of money.
Available in B22 (Bayonet), or E27 (Edison Screw):
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/1a45c0e9#/1a45c0e9/3
Another hidden downside of LED lights, don't suppose anybody knows if these mess up DAB radio?
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/advice/11312589/Problems-with-LED-bulbs-and-DAB-radio.html
LED's are low voltage devices so there will be a (cheap) switch-mode power supply inside to step down the voltage from the lighting cirucit. These will give off noise. Similar effects might be found with (cheap) mobile phone chargers. I wouldn't mind betting there is some sort of correlation between the colour, power input and the frequency of the DAB stations being listened to. If you buy more expensive LED bulbs with higher quality transformers in, they are probably more efficient and do not emit as much interference or have these used frequencies filtered out. For lamps, try to avoid plugging the lamp into the same socket (or double socket) as the radio. Interference should be very localised, so you can also try to keep these devices apart as much as possible. Otherwise buy branded, better quality ones to stand the best chances of not suffering from interference.
Emailed them. They claim it's not faulty, their bulbs only work in approved light fittings. There aren't many and it says nothing about this on the pack.
Besides that I am using it with a lamp with only three brightness settings. It should say on the packet not suitable for use in lamps, if so few switches are supported.
But it doesn't, it just says dimmable bulb e14. How am I supposed to know it only works in a select few lights from that?
Previously to this I was under the impression only cheap badly made bulbs buzzed. Seems like a cop out to me.
Philips do some LED bulbs of decent brightness and CRI (80+). They're reassuringly expensive.
Thanks OP.
This means
minimum load = 60 watts
maximum load = 300 watts
Add up the wattage of the LED's lamps that the dimmer is controlling, Is the minimum load of the connected LED lamps at least meeting the minimum load shown on your dimmer switch? (in this example 60 watts), if not then that is where your problem is, and it won't go away until you fit the proper hardware. Unfortunately in the days of filament lamps one or two bulbs was often enough to meet the minimum load required by the dimmer, in the days of LED's, well you will probably need seven or eight lights to do the same thing. Trailing edge dimmers can work as low as 10w and some even lower at 5w or 6w, so they are designed for LED loads, unlike the ones from 'yesterday', built to control a whole different technology.
Of course LED lamp manufacturers could fit dummy loads into their lamps, to consume 40w or 60w or whatever the minimum of an old style dimmer switch is, however that would create heat issues and also defeat the point of using an Energy Saving lamp in the first place, if your 7w lamp was designed to consume 65w just to make them compatible with dimmer switches which may have been fitted in 1992!.
If you want your LED lamps to dim properly from 0 - 100% without hum, radio interference, flickering or shortening the life of the actual lamp, then you need an LED dimmer switch.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/VARILIGHT-Intelligent-Trailing-Edge-Dimmers-Dimmer/dp/B00E7LVCRS
Yes it costs more money (Show me an ecological 'concern' which doesn't !!!!) but hey, its green so thats ok!
The only "energy-saving" bulbs that have ever persistently failed early on me have been the dimmable CFLs... and they came from top brands.
I use energy saving anyway at 8w and only cost me about 80 pence each so the cost saving for an LED is far more than my normal CFL energy savers!
Regardless, CRL's still waste about 20% of the electricity they transfer, where as LED's are closer to 98%. Over an extended period of time (30,000 hours) your 2W of heat is costing about £6 (10p a kWh). On that basis the average Joe should be happy paying upto £6.80 for one of these LED bulbs.
http://eartheasy.com/live_led_bulbs_comparison.html
First site I've found also says that CFL bulbs last about 10,000 hours while LEDs last 50,000 hours. So I'd be happy paying £10.80 + (4x£0.80). So £14 looks good for an LED bulb.
And add on another 80p if you go with these figures:
http://www.designrecycleinc.com/led%20comp%20chart.html
Like I said... IF you work the numbers....
Its Food for thought still?, thanx. :-)
£2 a bulb is still great value.
The only thing I can partly appreciate is that LEDs are far more customisable (beam angle, light warmth etc) which can be confusing for some, and others who may buy a bulb unsuitable for the purpose they want without realising. eg buying a high lumen 'white light' with a focused beam for a living area.
Far less "Light Policing" going on in my house these days, and I bought the higher 9W bulbs as these werent available at the time and they give off more than enough light.
Total bulb wattage in house is now = 115W..... years gone by this would of been 700W+
Heat from me! :sunglasses:
In my experience they are of a similar quality to the old style filament bulbs but obviously last significantly longer and are unbelievably cheap to run. The first year that I changed all my GU10s in the house (17) I noticed a difference in my electric bill.
I have bought my bulbs mainly from SimplyLed, Ledhut & IKEA. All have proved to be quite durable & reasonably priced. The only bad ones I had were from Amazon and made by a company called Aurora (I think?)
factor in return postage over popping into screwfix when you are passing to swap a duff one.
I have one in the downstairs loo but have spent under a quid getting a BC fitting added to my screwfix order.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-cordgrip-lamp-holder-bc-white/48002
Good thing with screwfix is this thing called an account you tend to use so you do not need a receipt as they have the brains to check your purchase history, never took the paperwork back for my GU10 Lap bulbs :smiley:
mike
My first LEDs were 4 branded GU10s from B&Q, with up to 30,000 hours written on the box. One failed within 3 months, so less than 300 hours actual useage. I had to argue for about 20 minutes to get B&Q to agree to a replacement. That was several years ago. No failures since, although the light output is poor by modern standards.
The 4GU10s from Toolstation have lasted about 3 years, no failures.
4GU10s in the kitchen from Interlux -3 or 4 failures to date. [I had 3 replacements sent FOC, then gave up]
3 x Minisun -No failures, very bright, very pleased so far.
The failure rate for LED is far higher and have had loads of people tell me they bought them only for them to only last a fraction of the stated hours before failing and they ended up going back to cheap CFL bulbs as they didn't fancy paying £6 to £8 a bulb for LED replacements all over again, infact they told me there original cfl bulbs were still working perfectly before they replaced with LED because it was the in thing..
The numbers just don't add up and you won't know if they do because the required amount of time hasn't passed yet, its a new technology thats only been out what no longer than about 4 years for residential..
I go by facts not figures made up by manufacturers
My 8w bulbs put out around 55w lumens so don't know where your getting your info from about being in a dimly lit room..
Infact they consume almost the same amount of energy as there LED counterparts at a fraction of their cost!
I confess I've only ever had to replace as many as 5 CFL's over a similar time period. They have been in rooms which get lots of usage, so I'm prepared to accept a modern CFL could well have a lifetime of 20,000hours.
As you say near-white LEDs have not been around for anywhere near as long so are very much an unknown quantity if we are ignoring manufacturers lifetimes. However we also need to take notions that all LED bulbs have high failure rates with a pinch of salt too. They don't cost £8 a bulb now either as this forum can testify to, and CFLs are not a fraction of the cost of an LED unless you are literally saying 1/2 is a fraction. £2 vs 80p? I bought 4 LED bulbs a year ago, they are used often (6 hours a day...) and are going strong. This too can be disregarded as anecdotal.
I tend to believe that manufacturers such as Philips would disclose reliable data for their product, and that their data could be trusted for a more expensive product. Cheaper imports which are made to unregulated specifications will be far more hit and miss. Furthermore, just as CFLs have improved over time, reliability rates will be continuing to improve.
My original point was that the cost of electricity is the paramount factor when costing for bulbs. Even if CFLs lasted three times longer than LED bulbs which means throwing out all the stated lifetimes available online (lets say 30,000 for a CFL vs 10,000 for a LED), over 30,000 hours your CFL costs you 80p and £6 more in electricity bills for the heat it wastes. Over the same period, the LEDs will cost you £6 more in replacements. Even when taking an overstated view of the CFL bulb, and when taking a very dim (intended) view of LEDs they are on par, and should the LED last anything over 10,000 hours, they are the better option.
use code LIGHT4FOR3 at check out.
I still use CFL simply because, like many people, I couldn't resist the 5 for £1 deals, however, my supply is declining rapidly as they're the only ones I'm replacing, even where the on/off cycles are relatively low. The only reliable CFLs I ever had, were the expensive Philips ones bought years ago.
I have bought a couple of 2000+ lumen LED lamps from China, but these failed quite quickly, checking the electronics, it's no wonder, but this is simply the power supply not the LEDs, I could probably replace that and get the lifespan you would expect - but it's not easy, LEDs themselves are built to last, but the driver circuits may not, hence why cheap lamps often fail. I suspect if you really want a long lasting setup, you'd be better off running low voltage lighting and a central driver which could easily and cheaply be replaced.
mike
Now, it really depends what you’re going to do under the light. If it’s just for lolling around in the evening, having dinner, chatting and conversing, everybody watching telly each with a laptop or tablet on the lap so you can all race to wikipedia to look up to see if that actor is still alive, that sort of thing, go for warm white. Cool neutral will disturb your sleep patterns (i.e., you won’t have any). If, on the other hand, you need to actually work, do stuff that requires colour perception such as painting water colours or acrylics (except for Jackson Pollock stuff, that doesn’t matter so much), needlework and scarf knitting, using that overlocker you just bought, cake icing or doing your makeup, go for a cool neutral white.
If you’re doing photography, youtube videos, etc, pick a daylight-coloured light source (which will be typically 5500° Kelvin in colour temperature terms), and if you get the chance, pick one that has a Colour Rendering Index of higher than 95%. A CRI of 80 is okay for just about the house non-critical stuff, but for good natural skin tone rendition on photo and video imaging work, 80% CRI is insufficiently accurate, whereas 95% is more what you’re aiming for. If you’re not capturing images, don’t panic about not having such a high CRI.
From the FT..
Maybe it's healthier to choose the 'warm' LEDs; which have a yellow disc over the diode to limit the blue elements in the LED light.
I think my bulk purchases of incandescent bulbs worked out at the time at about 10p each or less.
Think I won hands down.
I have changed 3 so far this year (so lost 30pence so far), and I have our lights on constantly. Sod the green brigade, they're all nuts!
edit
Make that 4 gone. Just went under the stairs cupboard ...light switch on and pop, light went. 60w. Flipped the trip switch. Went to my supply of bulbs - just realise I have a box of 20 E27s (screw type rather than normal bayonet). I'm not likely to need that many so on the bay with them. Bayonet bulb out, 60w, change bulb, all for a measly TEN PEE!!! flick back the trip, light on.
And some idiots think £2 a bulb is a hot deal. LOL
Ah well.
Oh yes, nearly forgot. Ice bloody COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's a different number that tells you the brightness (lumens).
(2) Unless I am mistaken, I think some people have said you need special fittings for LED bulbs. Is that true, or will the bulbs go into my existing light fittings?
I have got 4000K CFL bulbs in every part of the house and this one stands out from the rest.
These bulbs give out a slight "yellow" tinge.
http://www.my-sds.co.uk/Admin/ViewDocument.aspx?SDSNo=10991&HeadingID=1&MasterCompanyID=582&RevisionNumber=2302284&textToSearch=&isDopSearch=True&reportID=7
I fitted all 5 a few days back and have had no problems - I've ordered more.
http://ehp.niehs.nih.gov/122-A81/
Now, before you rush off and create a newspaper headline out of it, bear in mind that it hasn’t been shown to have an irreversible effect in humans.
Bought them myself for the landing and under the stairs. so far so good!
Their 5 for £9.98 bulbs are 10w 810 lumens and the bayonet type show as warm white 3000k ( so they are slightly different to the Screwfix ones) . The same spec on Screwfix are £6.99 each
click here to see them