Half price reduced from £12 down to £6 seems like a good deal to me and good reviews.
All comments (65)
Scottish_arab
15 Sep 17#1
Half price reduced from £12 down to £6 seems like a good deal to me and good reviews.
guttediam
15 Sep 17#2
Ordered two for C&C thanx Op :thumbsup:
zebz001
15 Sep 17#3
Ordered, thanks :thumbsup:
mayzi
15 Sep 17#4
My car phone charger pumps out double the usb power. Terrible at 2.1 shared
Waldolf to mayzi
16 Sep 17#39
Can you get your car into the front room?
mayzi to Waldolf
16 Sep 17#50
What a pointless comment. You know full well that there's better usb plugs out there.
chigger1
15 Sep 17#5
Thanks ordered
apjashley1
16 Sep 17#6
What does it use when idle
Malabus to apjashley1
19 Sep 17#58
Take the USB plug out.
apjashley1 to Malabus
19 Sep 17#60
It's still a transformer you can't turn off, what is the draw like with nothing plugged in?
the_mercy_of_percy
16 Sep 17#7
How fast will 5V charge my phone? I know it also depends on the cable etc but how does 5V compare to say a charger that comes with an iPhone? Some chargers seem faster than others
apjashley1 to the_mercy_of_percy
16 Sep 17#8
All chargers are 5V. 2.1A is not bad as long as you only have 1 thing plugged in.
chamelion to apjashley1
16 Sep 17#34
Fast chargers are 9 volts. Useful to note this plug will not fast charge a modern phone or most new phone models.
TheGalaxy to chamelion
16 Sep 17#49
Fast chargers actually support dynamic voltages from 3.2V-20V if QC3 (or either 5V/9V/12V for QC2), it's not really a fixed voltage but rather the device can request the appropriate voltage depending on what's ideal for its current charge level
sivthasan to apjashley1
16 Sep 17#48
Some chargers support 7V and 12V charging. For example, my Lenovo P2's Rapid charger pumps out 2A @ 12V, to charge the 5100mAH battery.
Malabus to apjashley1
19 Sep 17#59
Correct.
Syst3mzero to the_mercy_of_percy
20 Sep 17#61
its not just volts its amps. it depends on the phones volts and amps, some might say this socket is under powered but 2.1a 5v is perfect for charging many tablets and completely spot on for my phone, you are always better off using the correct volts and amps that way you don't damage your battery by charging quicker than it can safely handle.
since you haven't said what iPhone you have no one will be able to tell you but the easy way to check is look at your iphones original charger and and check volts and amps output.
also be aware that if using both usb sockets then they share the power so you get half per socket.
Vini
16 Sep 17#9
It’s the shared 2.1A you should look at. A single device that’s capable of receiving 2.1A will charge ‘quite quickly’.
Two devices plugged in will split that 2.1A.
I’m out of touch these days but I think the modern iPhones charge at 2.1A now. Though it’s likely 2.1A is quite some way behind where phones like the Samsung Galaxy are at in terms of ‘fast charging’...
Back in the day, the chargers supplied used to be 0.5A... just looking at the one I use that shipped with my iPhone 6, it states 1A...
Ultimately, if you charge at night, what does it matter if it’s fast or slow?
the_mercy_of_percy to Vini
16 Sep 17#22
Great thanks for explaining :thumbsup: on that basis I'm surprised the amperage is so low? As the USB connection is plugged directly into the mains? Lol but I know nothing about this stuff. :disappointed:
Luke4efc to the_mercy_of_percy
17 Sep 17#54
There will be a transformer built in, the same way your normal usb plug is a transformer :P
GlasgowDave to Vini
16 Sep 17#38
Over the last few years or so, iPhones have been able to charge at 2.1A and 10W. The latest Samsung phone can do 11.7W under certain circumstances. So, it's up to 17% more power intake. I've no idea how the new iPhone will compare.
Uridium to GlasgowDave
16 Sep 17#25
The Lenovo P2 uses a 24w fast charger !!
jreading to Vini
16 Sep 17#51
Because it won't be able to overcome the resistance of the battery, so won't fully charge
Zameen
16 Sep 17#10
Are these easy to change yourself ?
Chenty to Zameen
16 Sep 17#14
Yeah, just turn off your "sockets" circuit breaker and make sure the old socket is dead by plugging a lamp into it, then unscrew the old socket. Next, unscrew the smaller screws holding the wires to the socket, noting their orientation and finally reverse these steps with the new socket. Double check the earth (green & yellow) is connected properly. Finally, turn the circuit breaker back on and test the socket with a cheap device.
If it trips, check the wiring. If it still trips then you have a defective product. Some of the cheaper USB sockets are poorly isolated inside and can trip or shock, but these ones seem to have good reviews.
Leftfield_2k2 to Chenty
16 Sep 17#28
Unless you know how to check continuity of the ring final at the CCU once you have installed a new socket then you shouldn't be installing these yourself.
IF you break the ring final whilst squeezing these bigger sockets into an almost certainly undersized backbox then you are in serious trouble and danger!! IF you break the ring final YOU WILL NOT KNOW because it will still function just fine, HOWEVER you now have 32AMPS protecting 2.5mm cable, this is a serious fire hazard. Now if you draw a high enough load/current on this ring final for a significant amount of time the 2.5mm cable will glow red hot like a toaster element and potentially start a fire!
Don't mess with ring finals unless you know what you are doing, stick to radials ;-)
MynameisM to Leftfield_2k2
16 Sep 17#21
And what's the difference between this and say a normal socket the difference is negligible it wouldn't matter stop trying make it complicated. Before the wires get hot ur fuse or circuit breaker should kick in if that's buggered then ur in danger wether u keep the old socket or not and over Load the sockets simple nothing do with ur so called final ring.
Leftfield_2k2 to MynameisM
30 Sep 17#63
Thank you for clearly demonstring someone who shouldn't change a socket as you DO NOT understand what I'm saying with regards to a broken ring final circuit. THE FUSE WILL NOT SAVE YOU IF YOU BREAK THE RING!!
Chenty to Leftfield_2k2
16 Sep 17#33
Good to know. I didn't think about the back box being too small. Have not installed one of these before, just replaced regular sockets. Will personally stick to wall adapters for now. Thanks
AzeemB to Zameen
16 Sep 17#47
Yes and no. Depends what you have already. Personally I would suggest not to change it yourself if you have never done it before
You can always buy an extension lead which has usb charging built in, such as;
This gives you the advantage of surge protection, more sockets and less hassle. You can even get switched ones to.
dealposst
16 Sep 17#11
Wish they had a water sensor on the list.
Bossworld
16 Sep 17#12
Away from the bickering, assuming these are the same as the Toolstation ones (as they're the same company), they're branded up as being slim and suitable for a 25mm backbox.
screwfix.com/p/l…JPw Fitted and tested with above and all appears to be working well.
baggielad
16 Sep 17#18
Yes. Only issue is if the wires are relatively short and the connectors for neutral, live and earth are in different positions on the socket you're replacing. Also, I know it's obvious but just make sure you turn the power off!
mccririck
16 Sep 17#20
I really don't see the point in these. You're far better using a dedicated charger you get better current output. The Polaroid one from asda I measured at 2.24A from one of the sockets while charging an ipad.
Halfmad
16 Sep 17#23
Fitted half a dozen of these last year, very easy job only takes about 5 minutes per socket and having the switches for the plugs on the outside of the socket facia is strangely easier to work with in many instances as it's more accessible if you've got two large plugs in at once.
woohoo_postingid
16 Sep 17#24
Old stock. The new ones are 3.1a shared. BUT, at £6 it's a good price
BattleBeast1 to woohoo_postingid
16 Sep 17#42
I got the 3.1GE branded sockets from Amazon for the same price even though I only ordered the 2.1.
maci7807
16 Sep 17#26
Will be outdated in a short time, USB-C is gaining traction.
Towner to maci7807
16 Sep 17#19
Doesn't matter as these are USB sockets, it's the other end that changes.
Uridium to maci7807
16 Sep 17#32
And USB-A to USB-C cables will always be around......
mi5tery to maci7807
16 Sep 17#37
Agree somewhat that this will get outdated, but not for the reason you specified. The devices which come with USB-C charging today come with a USB-A to USB-C cable as standard, and even if this stops being the case, those cables will still be around. The reason I think these will get outdated is newer devices seem to need more power to charge optimumly. The shared 2.1A I think isn't enough moving forward unless you only use one plug.
Just my thoughts. Great deal if this doesn't concern you.
dmm1000
16 Sep 17#27
As i said on other threads of these products ...... if you test the actual output on these with a circuit tester ......you'll find that amongst the different brands the actual amp output varies wildly - even as low as 0.5 - i did find some from 7dayshop once - i think they were branded "PowerKnight" and came close to the quoted power and charged relatively efficiently
Krizzo3
16 Sep 17#29
aside from risks of bad installation
I do not like the idea of live circuitry inside my walls, even if it was a reputable brand etc.
only just rewired our house and none of those were put in, plenty of sockets for everything though
gerrond
16 Sep 17#30
Leftfield_2k2
Yeah,this happens all the time. Examples please.
Leftfield_2k2 to gerrond
16 Sep 17#31
I've lost count the amount of times I have found broken ring finals where incompetent people have either added extra sockets or changed sockets to snazzy chrome/metal ones.
You have to remember that T&E is normally solid core, if you bend it many times (like when people struggle to get all the cables squeezed into the backbox) IT WILL BREAK.
The poor advice here is plug something in and if it works all is good!! That is stupid advice, even with one of the cables snapped and the ring-final broken IT WILL STILL WORK when you plug something in! However, what you have now effectivly is a heating element embeeded into the fabric of your house waiting to glow red hot and burn your house down
Waldolf to Leftfield_2k2
16 Sep 17#40
I don't ever recall seeing this problem on the thousands of Periodic Test reports that pass my desk.
Must be a regional thing.
Gentle_Giant to Waldolf
16 Sep 17#13
And how are they testing the ring?? Those plug in testers wont show an issue with the ring, only if the cables are swapped/disconnected
I have seen all sorts of crap get passed by minimum wage monkeys taught to test with those things; I have been into several factories/offices where there were basic wiring faults going back decades, that no one had noticed.
rok263 to Waldolf
16 Sep 17#45
I agree with Leftfield_2k2. I have found many incomplete ring mains when completing EICR's. Or have come across them by chance when changing out 13A socket faceplates. Twisting the solid cores of 2.5mm T&E together strains the copper, (don't do it !) and you quite often see the copper core broken when the insulation starts, or someone has nicked or stressed the copper wire when stripping the insulation (by incorrectly using pliers, or cutters) then when the faceplate is put on one of the copper supply wires, usually neutral or live breaks as the cables are forced / bent into the back box. I would say I come across it in about 1 in 10 jobs I do. Of course YMMV, but I somehow doubt that it is a regional thing. :astonished:
Waldolf to rok263
16 Sep 17#52
And how many of them are specifically related to someone fitting a USB plug socket?
You've no doubt find no earth bonding, no split boards and no labels too, amongst other things.
My reading of the post was that he was saying don't fit a USB plug socket else you will most likely break the ring, and the cable will heat up and burn the house down. Which is nonsensical.
grey to Leftfield_2k2
16 Sep 17#46
Biggest issues I foresee is peoples definition of "tight" is different ie loose by only nipping it up (everybody sing-a-long to "I'm a Firestarter") , or tightening on insulation instead of the copper. When you work on the tools and see ppl who aren't used to handtools using them do you see just how flipping unprepared they are for the zombie outbreak
amkhan
16 Sep 17#35
In my VAG group car I have a fast charger (ankler) in the ciggy socket and Samsung charges superquick, as you'd expect with a fast charger.
ezzer72 to amkhan
16 Sep 17#15
Obviously a Skoda, because he/she wouldn't be able to not say if it was an Audi :wink:
husna2000
16 Sep 17#36
Heat up
daisychain12
16 Sep 17#41
I have this exact same unit and it's truly awful. An absolute waste of money, it failed to charge my mobile phone from the moment I started using it.
renoman
16 Sep 17#43
Bought, fitted and working, don't actually NEED to click n collect, they are merely on the shelf at this price.. Bought a few of these type of sockets, over last few years, this is the cheapest, looks well, and 20 year warranty!! Heat added from me, thanks op
smileypete
16 Sep 17#44
Needs a Big Clive teardown... :unamused:
Luke4efc
17 Sep 17#53
I hope you're not an electrician. Telling people to just swap it over and test it live isn't the smartest idea, especially when it seems like they've never done any electrical work at all before. At a minimum you should measure the resistance to earth (part of earth loop impedance check). Insulation checks should also be carried out, but I doubt anybody on here will have a megger to check it properly.
hedge2004
17 Sep 17#55
I originally bought these the plugs but returned them for the following - wickes.co.uk/Bri…095 I realised that the USB outputs need 3.1A for charging up tablets, also you get an additional USB port to boot!
meglaman2000
17 Sep 17#56
Eh?
Most cig lighters sockets are a direct connection to 12v with a 15amp or higher fuse. There are loads of devices that are designed for the cig lighter port that draw up to and around 15amps - like an air compressor for example.
long story short - cig lighter ports are more than capable of charging even the most modern of phones.
pboo26
17 Sep 17#57
Screwfix were doing these 2 for a tenner a short while ago. I think the deal was posted on here.
brvaland
21 Sep 17#62
What is the difference between this and screwfix that does 3.1 A - 2 for £15 Lap switched socket
Mirola to brvaland
1 Oct 17#65
Charges quicker that's all (and the charge given is across two connections, not one)
Mirola
1 Oct 17#64
Good price, they're 7.99 at homebase. 9.99 a stainless steel one at Home Bargains, those are 20 odd in other places.
![Fresh Breakfast Meat Box (Using code) @ Campbells Meat [Haggis / Lorne Sausage / Bacon / Black Pudding & More]](/images/topics/208684_1.jpg)
![[Xbox One] Q. u. b. e: Director's Cut on Deals with Gold](/images/topics/208716_1.jpg)
Opening post
All comments (65)
Terrible at 2.1 shared
2.1A is not bad as long as you only have 1 thing plugged in.
since you haven't said what iPhone you have no one will be able to tell you but the easy way to check is look at your iphones original charger and and check volts and amps output.
also be aware that if using both usb sockets then they share the power so you get half per socket.
Two devices plugged in will split that 2.1A.
I’m out of touch these days but I think the modern iPhones charge at 2.1A now. Though it’s likely 2.1A is quite some way behind where phones like the Samsung Galaxy are at in terms of ‘fast charging’...
Back in the day, the chargers supplied used to be 0.5A... just looking at the one I use that shipped with my iPhone 6, it states 1A...
Ultimately, if you charge at night, what does it matter if it’s fast or slow?
If it trips, check the wiring. If it still trips then you have a defective product. Some of the cheaper USB sockets are poorly isolated inside and can trip or shock, but these ones seem to have good reviews.
IF you break the ring final whilst squeezing these bigger sockets into an almost certainly undersized backbox then you are in serious trouble and danger!!
IF you break the ring final YOU WILL NOT KNOW because it will still function just fine, HOWEVER you now have 32AMPS protecting 2.5mm cable, this is a serious fire hazard.
Now if you draw a high enough load/current on this ring final for a significant amount of time the 2.5mm cable will glow red hot like a toaster element and potentially start a fire!
Don't mess with ring finals unless you know what you are doing, stick to radials ;-)
You can always buy an extension lead which has usb charging built in, such as;
ebay.co.uk/itm…toR
This gives you the advantage of surge protection, more sockets and less hassle. You can even get switched ones to.
toolstation.com/sho…813
The reason I think these will get outdated is newer devices seem to need more power to charge optimumly. The shared 2.1A I think isn't enough moving forward unless you only use one plug.
Just my thoughts. Great deal if this doesn't concern you.
I do not like the idea of live circuitry inside my walls, even if it was a reputable brand etc.
only just rewired our house and none of those were put in, plenty of sockets for everything though
Yeah,this happens all the time. Examples please.
You have to remember that T&E is normally solid core, if you bend it many times (like when people struggle to get all the cables squeezed into the backbox) IT WILL BREAK.
The poor advice here is plug something in and if it works all is good!! That is stupid advice, even with one of the cables snapped and the ring-final broken IT WILL STILL WORK when you plug something in! However, what you have now effectivly is a heating element embeeded into the fabric of your house waiting to glow red hot and burn your house down
Must be a regional thing.
I have seen all sorts of crap get passed by minimum wage monkeys taught to test with those things; I have been into several factories/offices where there were basic wiring faults going back decades, that no one had noticed.
You've no doubt find no earth bonding, no split boards and no labels too, amongst other things.
My reading of the post was that he was saying don't fit a USB plug socket else you will most likely break the ring, and the cable will heat up and burn the house down. Which is nonsensical.
Bought a few of these type of sockets, over last few years, this is the cheapest, looks well, and 20 year warranty!!
Heat added from me, thanks op
Most cig lighters sockets are a direct connection to 12v with a 15amp or higher fuse. There are loads of devices that are designed for the cig lighter port that draw up to and around 15amps - like an air compressor for example.
long story short - cig lighter ports are more than capable of charging even the most modern of phones.