Yes it is.

Any idea of what a rough price to install this is likely to cost?

Now why didn't I see that thread when I searched prior to posting my deal...Doh!

A Search doesn't bring it up: https://www.hotukdeals.com/search?q=hive+active+heating

this isnt the multizone version, right?

This is the old one not even worth £60

How do you find the battery life of the thermostat? I've read negatives about the newer one.

It does everything the new one does so no idea how you think it's not worth £60. Only difference is the thermostat part isn't as pretty

I've had the same batteries in this model for a year now and no sign of them running out

It does everything the new one does so no idea how you think it's not worth £60. Only difference is the thermostat part isn't as pretty

Bargain, got one from Screwfix when they were selling them off for same price, does exactly the same as the newer version, just does not look as pretty

took my plumber 20 mins to wire up

On second set of batteries in almost five years ...

Will this work on a combi boiler ?

Yes, you need the second one, hot water only.

Well, I only have this v1 version not the newer one but I've never had to change the batteries in it and it's been on the wall for 6 months.

this is a bargain for £60....fact

Is it easy to self install or do you really need someone to install it for you?

So is it pretty easy to self install? If I read correctly just connect the hub to my network, swap my existing timer control with the Hive control box...then put the wireless thermostat anywhere I want in the house?

Just had a look properly on Toolstation, are you sure I need the hotwater only? Don't I need the Thermostat heating only?
However as they are both £60 , could you not just sell the hot water part ?

The one I just bought is for heating only not hot water only. I think it's a mistake in the OP. Says it's for a combi.

Self install only if you are electrically competent, it's a simple job but you could still endanger yourself or others or damage your boiler.

Am I right in thinking the hub connects to the internet via ethernet and to the thermostat via RF, and the thermostat connects via RF to the boiler control box?

Anyone know what the range is like for these two connections? Boiler at back of house, internet hub at front. Long thin house!

i currently have a cosy smart heating and would like to replace with hive as it works with alexa and ifftt so would be much better for us - as the cosy one already have a receiver should this be as easy as swapping the receivers over and then the hubs and pretty much done?

I would have thought the app connects to the hub via the internet, that's how most of these smart home things work. So the hub still needs a pathway to the boiler.

^^^ youre right there.

distance for mine is only about 15 feet however so im no use to you there.

Be mindful it doesnt give you full true control over your heating and hot water.

my hot water comes on with heating regardless.. rang up hive with the sparky sat next to me and they said that yes its default on hive to pop hot water on when the heating comes on. you cannot seperate the two. so if you really want independant control over your heating and hot water, this wont give you it :-(

Would you get an electrician to do your plumbing?

Plumbers have to understand how the control systems work and typically will install them with a new boiler. If its a fairly standard system then its just swapping out a few components, no big deal.

Be a union matter where I work.

The 1970's?

Errrr yes, I work in the 1970's took me 47 years to get home.....:confused:
I wasn't born in the 70's BTW and I'm unsure of the relevance.
Just off to the butchers as I need a door hanging.

how does the v1 handle multizone then? You'd have to buy the new hub right?

Demarcation was a big thing with TU's in the 70's, thought it a thing of the past now!
Reminds me of Carry On at Your Convenience :laughing:

He doesn't mean plumber but heating engineer. :smiley:

Generally they are heating engineers rather than plumber's.

you can also run the hub off USB, mine runs off the USB socket on BT Home Hub 6, does not need mains power

It still is in large organisations. Back when I was on the tools I'd need to disconnect a motor, get a fitter to unbolt and replace then come back to wire it up.

There's always one who comes out with this sort of comment.

I love hive... i have this version. Not sure what else you could do with an app based thermostat.

As for fitting cost - £50 would do it. Thats what i'd charge on a fairly simple install.

Well I've gone for it, quite impressed with Toolstation's free next day delivery if you order by 8PM :smiley:

Good old union job. 10 people looking over one guy doing the job.

One of the reason's many of these large manufacturing organisations have gone, there were loads to choose from when I was an apprentice :disappointed: I do remember getting in trouble for wiring a 13A plug myself, and not getting the electrician to do it, even though I was on a wiring section at the time!

I was wondering if the hub usb had enough power, thanks.

Will this work with all electric heating flat ?

Heat added, thanks. Just ordered the last one from my local store, to collect tomorrow. Looking forward to getting this working with Echo.

Is not designed too. Do you have a thermostat now?

I have a 2 zone system. Can this hive 1 be configured for 2 zones? Anybody got this set up advise on what extras needed?

I'm in same boat. This version does not do zone heating. My plan is to install it in series with my current controller, having the hive do the hot water and zone 1, leaving zone 2 on the current controller (zone 2 heating has never even been on on the last year).

That's the plan, not even opened the box or thought about how I'm going to go about it yet though.

I'm a British Gas engineer. Multizone was a feature that was added after Hive 2 was released. So as far a multizones are concerned with the older edition, I don't think it will work.

For those that say it's not worth it...it is. The only difference between this and the new model is the thermostat. If you're like me, and use the app then you're fine. I don't really touch the thermostat. Yes the older one is more fiddly and doesn't look as nice, but the app is the same on the phone for both, and the app is easier to use than the new stat. So for £60 it's a bargain.

had for nearly 2 years...cant live without it .... been totally reliable ... think only changed batts once. app works great ,never touch the wall thermostat and TBH ,looks much better than most others.
sixty quid ...major bargain !! ...unless dual zone is important which most dont need.
Minor catch ...fitting get a price for that as that will push up over to Hundred plus ..than weigh up.

All fitted and working :smiley: Hardest part was fitting the receiver, as the original controller backplate was too close to the fused spur, so has to modify the backplate.

Does anyone know if the programmer fits straight onto the standard fitting which seems to be an industry standard for most of the conventional programmers or is it bespoke so will need some wiring.

Mine was a standard Lifestyle/Drayton controller, and it was compatible, same wiring. Had to tweak the backplate because it was too close to fused spur, but other than that just a swap over.

i also have the 3 port valve, but it doesnt work. called the plumber out after troubleshooting with HIVE and changing it to gravity fed (blue light), and they said that on the phone. this does confuse me now.... :-(

Anyone found instructions for wiring the receiver to a boiler? I know it varies between boilers a little, I've found where I wire it to the boiler, just need an example

So did your hw and ch work separately before with your old timer i.e. the three port valve was working ok before fitting the hive?

i had it fitted at the same time buddy. recently renovated the house after a house fire and with the traditional system iv'e got, wanted to get a smart system (had a honeywell before with little control and versatility). prior to the 3 port valve and hive, iv'e only ever been able to have 1 lot of controls, and that is over all of it (both hot water and heating) being on at the same time. i wanted to be able to control them separately, but cannot currently :-( have you any idea what my problem is?

Aren't you replacing an existing controller? My previous post on an older thread might help you .....
http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/hive-v1-smart-heating-controls-54-99-screwfix-2533395?p=29063333

Sounds like the 3 way valve hasn't been fitted or wired correctly or maybe faulty. Basically it's supposed to direct the hot feed from the boiler to the hw tank, ch or both depending on the supply to the wires (4 on my one). On mine you can detach the motorised actuator and move the valve manually and then feel the feeds to the hw tank or ch to see which is getting hot and determine if the valve is working ok. Also on my actuator there is a manual override level which I think just splits the hot supply between both. It really needs someone to get in there and test it.
Also on your old system did you always have to have the heating on if you wanted hw? Even in the summer i.e. no ability for hw only?

:-( have you any idea what my problem is?[/quote]
Chances are your plumber or electrician has wired it up wrong. My guess is if you took the hive controls off and put the conventional programmer and thermostat back on you will still have the same problem. I installed my own system years ago. I got the boiler connected and installed by a gas safe, think it was corgi back then, registered plumber but I did all the other work myself which involved room stat, tank stat, 3 port valve, pump and programmer. All control were Honeywell apart from programmer. There was a spider's web of wires and I had conflicting instructions between some of the components. It was obvious something was not going to work so I drew out a wiring diagram myself knowing what should go where and I think it was either the 3 port valve or programmer instructions or maybe even the boiler instructions that were wrong. I used a Drayton junction box to bring all the wiring together and if I remember rightly, their instruction were correct. I think there was about 25 wires altogether so it's easy to get something wrong and end up with either pump running all the time or heating and water mixed up etc etc. Mine worked fine first time but it could have been so easy to get it wrong.

Cheers, that's the one I have. My programmer is on tiles in the utility so didn't want to go messing about changing wiring.

Be careful when fitting the controller to the boiler. Existing backplates may fit, there are standard ones with six terminals, but the terminal layout for the Hive might not be the same as for your previous controller. If in doubt, you are not competent and could be in big trouble if there's a fire - eg not-insured.

Wow! These have only been release in 2013! You're magic! :wink:

No, hub is for internet connectivity. You'll need an extra multi zone thermostat. Cheapest I've seen is £99

My CH and HW operate independently and I have the mid point valve. This hive 1 definitely allows it.

Their sweeping statement about gravity fed systems in the instructions IS very misleading. We have the third way of doing it which has two separate valves and has to be in the green light mode to work as well.

I have a combi boiler - ordered one of these yesterday as post states product code for hot water and heating, and I didn't just need hot water.
The box has arrived and says this one is for use with hot water tanks..... will the heating part still work or do I need to return?

Return it and get the combi boiler one. The dual channel one has switched live outputs where as the combi appears to be a passive relay, switching the output from the combi itself. Easier to get the right one.

Yeah I know as that is my set up as well so it points to the 3 way valve not working or hasn't been installed properly. Hive themselves haven't helped by setting it in the wrong mode although I can imagine debugging this over the phone to be a nightmare esp if the original install is the problem.

thanks for your reply there.

to answer your last question buddy, yes, there was no seperation of the two. i used to turn all my rads off at the thermostatic valves :-( and turn the thermostat down to like 5 degrees or something. god knows whats wrong. sparky said the valve is doing everything it should, swinging both ways (waheeeeeeey), well atleast the electrical component is.. if the valve itself is moving is another thing i guess... :-/

Would the heating/hot water version control the preheat function of my combi boiler?

Just been quoted £100 to install one of these, is this in the right ball park? Sounds more than I expected.

Anyone found any active toolstation discount codes which can be used?

Unless your system is weird/broken, it's stupidly easy to fit and shouldn't take more than half an hour so £100 sounds a lot. Are you sure you can't do it yourself?

I've never done anything with electrics but my dad has so was going to ask his advice on it, he was concerned about the fused spur but i have one of those already connected to a Honeywell FrostStat. I've looked for the instructions for the frost stat but it's not fully clear what is what in there... have attached a picture if anyone can offer any advice!

The cost thermostat on the right will come out - that just piggy backs off the current system to allow app control but compared to the hive it's nowhere near as good!

Image Link: https://ibb.co/hUNLJF

Hi Phil,

Are you just asking what wire does what? If you look on the inside of the front cover there should be a small wiring diagram.

1= Live
2= Neutral
3= Switched live
Earth

Thanks, i worked that bit out last night. What I don't see is what would connect to the Hive common and heating off ports.

The Heating off (NC) terminal will be unused and the common may need a short link between the permanent live terminal and common.