I hope that will help someone who needs petrol lawnmower. Good price, 3 day deal only.
Top comments
wassupjg
7y 44d9#9
thabiz to fender62
7y 44d7#34
Hot deal, these chinese engines are probably ripoffs of Honda or Briggs and Stratton designs and can provide a long life with abit of TLC.
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing
themachman
7y 44d4#28
great price
pennyfarthing88
7y 44d3#35
Hot deal, these chinese engines are probably ripoffs of Honda or Briggs and Stratton designs and can provide a long life with abit of TLC.
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing [/quote
That's one of the longest comments I've ever seen on HUKD and I'd have read the lot except I nodded off half way through
Latest comments (53)
wilf1234
7y 41d#53
Anyone had any problems with these? I've got one in my garage that I just can't get started - cleaned carb, new fuel, new plug!! Runs for 30secs if I spray in Carb Cleaner into the cylinder, but then dies. Fuel seems to be getting through OK!!!
Same as I got, have used in previous mower no problems, and well rated on Screwfix site
anfieldlee1982
7y 44d#39
Avoid like the plague I had one that packed up after 3 months I'd used it 5 times for the back garden the pull cord snapped and the carbareter went on it good price but you might aswell set fire to £70 tbh awful product
Zuulan to anfieldlee1982
7y 44d#50
Why didn't you return it under warranty?
thabiz
7y 44d#49
When I zoomed in on the picture I thought it looked like that bar with a spring on it on the left hand side adjusted the wheels, but then all of the similar models on bandq website said you had to remove the wheels to adjust. Screwfix must of got the upgraded model, silly of them not to mention this feature though.
Hope everyone enjoys their new toys
Faba1993
7y 44d1#48
good to know. appreciate this info
heat added, op
March.Hare
7y 44d#46
Hi, got some 10W40 oil from Screwfix at the same time for under a fiver
dhanepud
7y 44d#44
Hi , what kind of oil goes in this ? also , where can I buy can for petrol ? sorry silly question, but this is my first petrol lawnmower
paulandpam1 to dhanepud
7y 44d#45
Most petrol stations and large supermarkets sell the plastic petrol containers for a few quid, I use cheap 10w40 engine oil in mine.
March.Hare
7y 44d1#43
Hi, picked up one of these yesterday, it has a lever on the right hand side for seven position height adjustment, so wonder if there are a couple of variants of this model??
CDR
7y 44d#42
Looks like its now out of stock online and thus cannot be delivered instore for click and collect.
Expired
Donkii
7y 44d#41
I'd make sure you don't let you grass too long with only a 99cc engine as it will end up looking like a dogs dinner. Good price for the right garden though.
thabiz
7y 44d#40
I have noticed these mowers have their Sparkplug/Cylinder at the front of the mower in a central location, therefore my advice of only tipping the mower so the sparkplug faces skyward is not applicable in this instance. The correct side to tip the mower should be the opposite side to the oil filler/dipstick and exhaust.
Dealmessiah
7y 44d1#38
Excellent advice. Thank you for posting.
GlasWolf
7y 44d1#37
You deserve a like just for taking the time and effort to write that up, thabiz - nice one.
thabiz
7y 44d1#36
Fair enuff, I am bored on a Friday evening I guess... But hopefully there are some snippets of wisdom in that lot that people will take on board.... I hope :P
pennyfarthing88
7y 44d3#35
Hot deal, these chinese engines are probably ripoffs of Honda or Briggs and Stratton designs and can provide a long life with abit of TLC.
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing [/quote
That's one of the longest comments I've ever seen on HUKD and I'd have read the lot except I nodded off half way through
fender62
7y 44d#15
i have an old briggs&stratton engine on my mower, starts everytime never been serviced, only ever changed oil and sharpened blade bullet proof engines, if i was after another mower id look for that engine. dont know what's on this mower advertised ?
turnma to fender62
7y 44d#19
I was thinking the same. Mine is over 10 years old now, and it's only now that I'm thinking a service might benefit it. I was nearly put off from buying a petrol mower because of all the maintenance that I was told that they need. On the self-propelled front, mine was self-propelled but the wire that controlled the throttle snapped. It was horrendous to get to for replacing, plus when I got the spare part I found that the part had changed since my model. At this point I gave up, but I've managed just fine pushing it around for the past 8 years. This was on a 150ft garden, where an electric mower just wasn't practical.
Derek_Duval to fender62
7y 44d#22
Mines 17 years old, had one oil change, one spark plug and one diaphragm. Still starts and runs perfect but the body's rusted badly and has holes. So +1 on b&s if you can get a deal.
thabiz to fender62
7y 44d7#34
Hot deal, these chinese engines are probably ripoffs of Honda or Briggs and Stratton designs and can provide a long life with abit of TLC.
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing
jumpinoffthbed
7y 44d#33
maybe electric mowers have improved from 15 years ago, I only paid 35quid for a non branded one from tesco and thought it would last maybe 2 years the amount I have to cut so I bought a bosch on offer at some point but it's still in the box. I've just checked and it was 3 years 8 months ago. now i don't have time to cut once a week so it's cutting ankle length grass every fortnight and I would definitely have spent the cost of the mower every year in petrol alone so I'm happy. I think the only advantage of a petrol is you could have 10cm bigger blade but I'm not too fussed.
Think screwfix and b&q are the same company. Looking at the reviews this is cheap for a reason.
dhanepud
7y 44d#25
what is the screwfix return policy on reduced price item like this ?
kate47a to dhanepud
7y 44d#30
Standard returns policy.
30 days if unused and boxed, 12 months if faulty.
campbellcabs
7y 44d#29
My Briggs and Stratton has been running for 16 years with no trouble. It's manual and easy to push. I've only ever serviced it once (myself) after buying the £11 maintenance kit and following a YouTube video and I'm no mechanic by any means.
themachman
7y 44d4#28
great price
dhanepud
7y 44d#4
How heavy are these to mow around as compared to self propelled ones? The cheapest self propelled i see from mountfield at around £180.
pistol6000 to dhanepud
7y 44d#8
i have a similar plastic body one from b and q, as long as the grass isnt too long they are easy to push.
if you try and push it through long grass the body flex's alot.
had mine 6 years so this is a bargain
Zuulan to dhanepud
7y 44d2#27
They are heavy but if you have a fairly straight forward shaped & flat lawn that it isn't too bad a problem. If you have awkward shaped lawns or have to mow around bedding plants/trees etc then I would say it's best to save up for a self-propelled one.
wassupjg
7y 44d9#9
Zuulan to wassupjg
7y 44d3#26
These petrol mowers are lighter then I thought.
dhanepud
7y 44d#24
what is the screwfix return policy on reduced price item like this ?
paulandpam1
7y 44d#20
Can anyone who has bought this mower confirm how the wheel height is adjusted, whether its a lever (I can't see one in the photo) or you have to unscrew each wheel and fit it to the new position.
I'm thinking of buying this as a spare for when my 15 year old mower dies but if the height adjustment is a ball ache I'll give it a miss.
Also what make is the engine? THANKS
thommo to paulandpam1
7y 44d#23
You have to unscrew each wheel
RealBargainHunter
7y 44d#21
Damn! Paid £160 for a Qualcast 125cc self-propelled petrol lawnmower yesterday in homebase! Will take it back and get this I think?.. Thanks Op
jumpinoffthbed
7y 44d1#13
honestly if you're going to get a push mower get an electric one, much lighter, cheaper to run, no **** about trying to get it started or messing with petrol and oil, no spark plug to clean, no servicing at all actually. obviously if you have dozens of trees and stuff to mow around you'll want a cordless. got mine 3 or 4 years ago and haven't looked back.
also if you have a solar installation like me it's not just cheaper to mow the lawn it's free most of the time lol
paulandpam1 to jumpinoffthbed
7y 44d#18
After killing one electric mower every 18 months in my medium to large garden i eventually bought a Flymo Petrol mower 15 years ago for about £150, I still use that same mower now and in the 15 years I have only bought one recoil pull starter for £12 and changed the oil every few years costing about 90p each time.
I was paying about £80 a year replacing electric mowers that just could not handle large gardens with longish grass.
I usually buy 10 litres or £13 of petrol each year to run the mower.
millarcat
7y 44d#17
Great price, thanks for the heads up
_JR
7y 44d#16
£70 petrol mower - two seasons - bargain!
thanks OP one ordered
inderjitsingh
7y 44d#14
thanks
honeymonster86
7y 44d1#12
Hand-propelled!? Haha... is this a posh way to say you have to push it!
fazzy-bhoy
7y 44d#11
I second this comment. I've got a Mountfield mower and the self drive function isn't working. It's a struggle to push round my uneven and large lawn. Coupled with the fact it's almost like meadow grass than proper lawn it's hard going. Last service cost £58 and it will cost again to get the self propel pit working. When it does though, you get a bit of wheelspin on damp grass.
Still a good mower though.
moneybag
7y 44d1#6
Amazing price, but you'll probably regret not getting a self-propelled if you have an uneven or large lawn.
wstrainer to moneybag
7y 44d#10
Have to agree with this comment, if large or uneven self-propelled much better. However please bear in mind that self-propelled uses the back wheels to drive and I have found with my mountfield mower that the knobbly wheels (hard plastic) do wear out giving less traction especially if grass is slightly damp, would probably say after a couple of years. Also remember that this or other petrol lawnmowers really could do with being serviced every couple of years, last service cost me £108 but this included a new carburettor (5 years old mower) - you could do yourself for less if you are bit handy with mechanics. Hope helps
![Fresh Breakfast Meat Box (Using code) @ Campbells Meat [Haggis / Lorne Sausage / Bacon / Black Pudding & More]](/images/topics/208684_1.jpg)
![[Xbox One] Q. u. b. e: Director's Cut on Deals with Gold](/images/topics/208716_1.jpg)
Opening post
3 day deal only.
Top comments
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing
That's one of the longest comments I've ever seen on HUKD and I'd have read the lot except I nodded off half way through
Latest comments (53)
Any ideas?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-hp-141-4-stroke-engine-oil-1ltr/96875?kpid=96875&gclid=COCBk6ezgdQCFRMTGwod8K8PNg&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIHEoKezgdQCFYiUdwod3WYNQA
Hope everyone enjoys their new toys
heat added, op
Expired
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing
That's one of the longest comments I've ever seen on HUKD and I'd have read the lot except I nodded off half way through
I have an entry level Qualcast with the briggs and stratton 148cc engine, got it new off ebay for about £70-£80 3 years ago, only use it maybe 4 times a year but it always starts after a few pulls (I find that it needs a good 10-15 pumps on the primer button, not the inadequate 3 or so that it recommends).
The whole thing about old petrol, carbs and spark plugs needing servicing etc is quite exaggerated. Trust me, local authorities and grounds maintenance companies generally do not properly service their mowers, if atall. They are often left in lockups over the winter and then given afew pulls til they start come summer.
If you want good easy service out of one of these I would say:
*make sure all the bolts are tight (esp the blade!) or change some bolts for better ones,
*fit a quality brand sparkplug that is the correct type for the engine
*Put decent oil to the correct level in as soon as you get it (I doubt the factory Chinese oil is upto much), briggs and stratton suggest SAE 30, and that is what I have used with no issue, but any 10W 40, 5w40 or 5w 30 would also be ok.
*Use a ZDDP oil and fuel additive such as Extra lube ZX1, this will create a 1 molecule thick coating of Zinc to the internals of the engine, this makes for smooth running and protects it if your oil gets old/low.
*Use a product like Redex in your petrol every now and then to help clean the carb.
*Clean the deck and air filter abit after use using you hands or maybe a brush. Not necessarily great for it to hose it down.
*Loosen the fuel cap a little sometimes when starting to allow oxygen through, don't over tighten the cap.
*When tipping the mower on it's side, be sure to only tip it so that the spark plug is facing skyward. Otherwise engine oil will run into the cylinder and make it hard to start and incredibly smokey when it does eventually start. Eventually the oil will burn off with little harm done, but it is annoying.
Naughty tricks of the trade, of course there are elements of risk but you can do these safely IF YOU ARE SENSIBLE:
*wedge open the grass shoot a little bit, not too much as stones and sticks will fly out, just enough to allow the grass to disperse easier, (I don't bother with the grass box, too much messing about).
*If possible use a stick, small shovel or other tool to remove stuck grass from the shoot when it is running,
BUT ONLY IF THE MODEL OF MOWER IN QUESTION IS CAPABLE OF HAVING THE BLADE REMAIN STILL AT IDLE, EVEN THEN USE EXTREME CAUTION. If in doubt, just turn it off and fully remove all grass by hand. Officially you should also remove the sparkplug every time you remove stuck grass when it is off, but in reality no one does that.
*use a toe strap to tie down the "dead mans handle" (the bar you have to press in order for the mower to run). This will allow the mower to run/idle hands free.
*Although the blades are made from hardened steel, you can still sharpen them, but the edge won't last as long as it did originally. I would imagine spares for these generic Chinese mowers are on ebay if you measure up your respective parts and look around abit, even if they are not exactly the same.
Definitely always wear some eye protection (proper EN166 specs are on ebay for a couple of quid), stout grippy foot wear and hearing protection. Don't mow near unprotected humans or animals. Stones and sticks, and possibly bits of metal flying through the air is always a risk using any mower, hedge cutter or strimmer, even electric ones. And the constant drone of motors is not good for the ears, regardless of how quiet you think your mower is.
Anyway, happy mowing
30 days if unused and boxed, 12 months if faulty.
if you try and push it through long grass the body flex's alot.
had mine 6 years so this is a bargain
I'm thinking of buying this as a spare for when my 15 year old mower dies but if the height adjustment is a ball ache I'll give it a miss.
Also what make is the engine? THANKS
also if you have a solar installation like me it's not just cheaper to mow the lawn it's free most of the time lol
I was paying about £80 a year replacing electric mowers that just could not handle large gardens with longish grass.
I usually buy 10 litres or £13 of petrol each year to run the mower.
thanks OP one ordered
Still a good mower though.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mountfield-sp164-39cm-100cc-self-propelled-rotary-petrol-lawn-mower/21442