Coincidentally, I put it on today, not because I knew about the plaster issue but because I needed more space behind the plate to run a new spur of it.

That little plastic is so they don't get manky after a few weeks by reacting to the plaster on the wall.
I'd put it on if I were you.

2 for £10 on these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13a-2-gang-sp-switched-socket-usb-charger-outboard-rocker-white/8534f?cm_sp=homepage-_-home-_-8534f

Do these sites flush or need a spacer or bigger back box

I did all the lights rewiring in the bathroom in my then flat back in 1996 - I was just hoping I got it right and used a diagram I found somewhere. All seemed to go OK but I was under the impression the regs changed so that bodgers aren't allowed to have a DIY go any more?

Good find question though do these need a spacer or do they need a bigger rear plate to sit flush

I never said these USB sockets weren't safe, provided you buy from a reputable uk dealer (screwfix, toolstation, wicks, b&q ..etc) then all of these sockets would have had too have passed multiple British safety standards. Just don't go buying them on ebay as they could then come direct from china bypassing this safety net.
The real and serious problem comes from people who don't fully understand the dangers of a broken ring final, I bet the vast majority don't bother to run a continuity test afterwards at the CCU even if they knew how too!!!

As for the shared current, it should/would only share if you have both USB sockets drawing current simultaneously.
If you only have one device connected it should allow that device to draw up to the transformers max of 2.1A

Now then, re-read what you just wrote and work out what the problem is.


Answer: "insufficiently sized back box" is the problem there. Not the actual socket faceplate itself.

Yes i agree about the broken ring main that does constitute a fire risk, but that would go into the category as poor installation/incompetency. So anyone reading these comments should really make sure the backbox is deep enough before installing the sockets. And you also need to test the ring for continuity (obliviously disconnected from the mains). if in doubt, consult a local electrician.

Is that 1.2A each or 1.05A each? Either way I would be going for the new 3.1A rated sockets also available.

​fast charge shortens the battery life massively. slow charge is much better if you want longer battery. plus what does it matter if your phone is plugged in over night or just topped up over the course of a film.

I dread to think how many houses now have broken ring finals after 'have a go' diy enthusiasts try to cram a USB socket into a insufficiently sized back box!!
A broken ring final is a 100% fire risk!!!
Unless you fully understand what I've just said you really shouldn't be installing sockets unless they are on a radial !!


This is why amateurs shouldn't mess with electrics, the screw connections are not a sufficient method for bonding metal fixtures imho, you should be running a cpc/earth loop from the back-box earth terminal into the sockets earth terminal. And terminations should be doubled over for good measure

Hope you earthed the faceplate

2.1A rated for the USB.

If you check a previous HUKD post there are a few sparkies warning against these. For various reasons, including they are dangerous

I bought quite a few from screw fix when they were on offer 2 for £25. ( A permanent offer) hubby fixed them. Seem fine, look fine and work fine.

It was the 2 pack of white ones at the weekend IIRC.
These look nicer though

Already been posted two for £11.99

Just to add if your wiring is old then the Red wire is L (live) and the Black wire is N (neutral)

I don't really see the point for this. anyway I need to use an extension lead so…

how easy are there to install, do you need to get a qualified electrician and how much would that cost (ish, as not a precise science)