They ship from Switzerland (2-4days for me) very good for the money, but if you are working with large files the write speed will tail off (slow) once the Memory cache is full (its a problem for all TLC drives (Integral isn't worst by far) Samsung Evo 850s are least affected)

With these drives though, the internals are subject to change over time.

I would normally recommend the Sandisk Plus 240GB which was the best value drive about as it used (more robust) MLC not TLC, but it now uses a different controller and cheaper, slower TLC, in the G.26 revision, but were back to £40 on Amazon Prime day last week.

Also, not much in the way of support tools for Integral drives, but they are effectively the same as the Sony branded ones so those tools may work (not tried or needed to).

I have found that these drives work well with the SSD erase feature in Paragon Hard Disk Manager, which other SSDs don't. Also, yet to have one freeze, as I get with Sandisk Plus occasionally on boot, as though its doing some housekeeping.
Best to put a price on your data (and time), Samsungs are expensive because they just work, but if you use more than one laptop like me, (that in effect halves you usage)- there is nothing wrong with Integral SSDs, but I personally would still choose a Samsung if the laptop/data was my lifeblood.

Back in stock at £35.

Lol, I just finished a post and saw you don't need any more reassurance.

Re licence keys: Run Belarc before and after these kinds of processes. It does lots including retrieve whatever keys it can. You can save the report from the browser it opens in.

Mostly yeah. Particularly for a Vista machine, Windows 7 probably knows it well. I usually go to the motherboard website and grab all the motherboard drivers in advance but it often turns out to be a waste of time.

If you do find the right bit of the right website and understand all the stuff, you might as well get chipset, graphics, wired and wireless network and sound. (This is the bit that's difficult to throw out accurate advice without seeing the motherboard and its website)

- Install Windows, get as far as desktop and manually run Windows update
- 'Activate' Windows (Install MS Office if you have it and activate that too)
- Manually run Windows update again and again until it swears there's no more updates... There will be lots of rebooting and lots of downloading....
- Tell us if you see any yellow question marks in device manager. Take a screen shot? That tells us if it needs any more drivers

Re Vista and 7 on the same computer

If you want to be sure you can run old-Windows if you want to, you will be able to to that without installing a 'dual boot' setup.

There's not many things I hat but one is having a dual boot I can't get rid of after years of never needing it.

After new-Windows is installed, your old drive can be plugged back in as a data-drive. Old-Windows will not run from it but all your stuff will be in there somewhere.

If you ever DO have to run old-Windows, unplug the new drive, maybe change boot order in BIOS, old-Windows will boot...




:smiley:

Glad to hear you made it, you can upgrade to window 10 and it will automatically activate you for as many times you like on the same PC. After the first time you can then clean install too. I admit that the problem with w8,8.1and 10 is that they never had any proper start menu, hence all the bad publicity they had, for the rest w10 I personally think is the best. There is a way round to that f you find that a bit uncomfortable with w10, this is the best program you should install and get the feel of window7 in regards to the start problem: http://www.classicshell.net/downloads/
it is very popular and safe

Did you work out what rogue software caused that?

Read this:
http://www.howtogeek.com/253901/get-windows-10-for-free-after-july-29th-with-a-little-prep-now/

I haven't used a pagefile in a long time. The only time I encountered issues is when memory leaking software increased commit charge above my physical memory capacity.

Thank you and everyone else for your input.
I've managed to install it. Windows is just updating now (230 updates) thank you for letting me know about the free update to win10. If I don't like it can I go back to win7? Do MS give a new license key or will the win7 key work?

you can if the drive is partitioned in advance but not sure why you need to do that
Also, if the new drive will not allow you to clean install or if you do not see it( usually should be visible) at time of clean installation it means that you need to initialize it first (can only be done from the desktop). I would double check it first on the desktop with the help of the other vista drive and provided you already got a spare sata cable and spare sata power cable or as simple as that you can unplug the one from your cd/dvd drive and use for the purpose. Other instructions from Agharta are fine

If it's a relatively modern (<5 years) single drive laptop system or a desktop I'm more inclined to pay a little more for better performance and the extra space for future purpose, you're extending it's useful life fitting an SSD as it is. If it's for something akin to a netbook that can basically only deal with browsing and simple office tasks anyway then this is adequate. Many of those still have SATA 3 capability however.

As a Dell D620 is so old (pre SATA 3) and likely came with a small drive anyway when it was new, it'll not benefit from a faster SSD than this 120GB version anyway and likely never had more storage requirements for most buyers.

I'm nearly sure i've office 2016, and Win10 on my 120GB SSD and i'm only using around 60GB. I've 1 TB of cloudspace so all my documents, pdfs, pictures are all up there. I'll check on monday as i leave my machine locked on customer site

It does absolutely depend on the purpose for the machine, as you say. That little laptop i just use on weeknights when i am away with work and it doesnt need games installed or anything (i've HP Envy 13 i7 as my main machine here at home)

I only paid £26.50 for the Dell D620 so spending £50 at the time instead of £24.99 made little sense.

That's the easiest option. Which bits are you not clear on?

1. You will need to make bootable media from your Win7 ISO so ask if you need help with that.
2. Disconnect the HDD power and data cables.
3. Physically install the SSD. You can probably use the same power connector and data cables from the HDD. The drives are very light and not fragile so you can attach with Velcro or blutack.
4. Boot from your Windows 7 media. Better to use a USB stick but a DVD is fine. To do this you may need to hit F12 (Function key 12) a number of times just after powering on which will bring up a boot menu from which you choose the drive with Windows on.
5. It may not be F12 on your PC so try other Function keys or you may need to go into the BIOS to set the boot device list or order. To get into the BIOS try the Delete key when you first power on or F2 for a Dell I think!
6. As it’s using Vista it may be quite old so it may not give you the option to boot from USB but no problem from a DVD. If that is a problem you will need to create a bootable DVD which isn’t too hard.
7. Once you are able to boot from the Win7 media just follow the onscreen instructions.

An alternative is to go straight to Windows 10 which you can do using your Windows 7 key and you can download the Win10 ISO direct from MS. For an older PC this may be riskier than Win7 due to hardware/driver support. I can’t say.

I'm nearly sure i've office 2016, and Win10 on my 120GB SSD and i'm only using around 60GB. I've 1 TB of cloudspace so all my documents, pdfs, pictures are all up there. I'll check on monday as i leave my machine locked on customer site

It does absolutely depend on the purpose for the machine, as you say. That little laptop i just use on weeknights when i am away with work and it doesnt need games installed or anything (i've HP Envy 13 i7 as my main machine here at home)

I only paid £26.50 for the Dell D620 so spending £50 at the time instead of £24.99 made little sense.

2) people does fiddle with that a lot, there is an important purpose for having the whole as it is without touching the original structure at all, of course the paging files can be reduced but should not be touched, that is why a decent drive size should be fitted a let the rest work automatically for the best results when the pc is in use.
3) 30gb or near after installation, I do not know a lot about hibernation as the PC should be switched off at all times when unattended, fire is the main reason, I actually switch off the main, will stop anyone getting in to the system while we are away. safety of any kind first of all

1. Prioritize RAM over an SSD.
2. When you have enough RAM you can disable the paging file completely or set it to a fixed value like 2GB just in case.
3. Hibernation is generally not necessary on a desktop which this is being used for so disable that.
4. Now the operating system is only using 2GB at maximum or none hence why the 30GB figure is unusually high unless you have 32GB of RAM and are using hibernation and a page file.

Potential for more troubles of course , trim is virtually became useless even so it is virtually better to have. All ssd do a great job replacing that nowdays.
Sally, forget about having 2 separate systems especially if different. At worse, if you insist, you can instal the same window7 in as many drives as you like in the same system and be able to legally activate al of them. My suggestion is to go for the window10 free installation before the ending time elegibility by the 29-july 2016 and you can still have 2 separate OS in the same pc which after the first activation will always activate automatically. My suggestion is to keep only one for less complications. Only use second drives ready as back up in case you will get in trouble, not sure what, can be a virus. a corruption, disk failure, just anything and it is nice to have one handy and ready to connect and still be able to go on the desktop and possibly repair the other one or retrieve all the important data if possible.
Note that W. vista will not be supported anymore by 2017 and W7 by 2020
About your query if you can have 2 systems in the same ssd, yes but needs to be partitioned.

Im going to pull out the HDD and put the SSD in its place with win7 on it

no, he is right:
2)the system will reserve an extra amount of the size of the ram in case a failure, check the amount left of the disk in gb, take off a stick of ram and after you check the disk again, you will see it is gone up in size by the same amount of the ram memory you took off, if 2gb=2gb if 4=4gb and so on
3)the 240gb size are at less than £40 very often, especially the sandisk, so makes more sense to buy a 240gb, not just that it will be a fully usable 120gb -10% after formatting, so not really £15 extra but less, around £10( proportionally) if you consider the extra space you gained, the extra 25/30gb because of the non extra installation of the window + the ram backup usage,
That ram reservation business can obviously affect these people that do use small drives especially when 32gb or even 64gb are in use. Well, we must also assume that these same people do use the common sense when choosing a drive for an expensive system.

So you want to keep Vista on the HDD and put Windows 7 on the SSD?

Can't think why that wouldn't be possible. I would only do that if you have a very good reason to as it's extra work and more potential for problems for someone without experience.
Vista doesn't support TRIM so is not ideal for an SSD although Win7 should sort that out.

1. Good point about spare space after a Windows install although my only 2.5" SSD is in a caddy as an external drive so it doesn't impact me.
2. I presume you are talking about Hibernation when you refer to RAM backup so 30GB is a lot for an 8GB system when only 8GB is required.
3. £10 more! If the drive costs £50 then you are still paying twice as much even if you have more than twice as much free space after a Windows install so what does £10 more refer to?

Thank you. I'm going to try it later.
Is it possible to have vista and win7 on the same ssd?

in reality is a lot more than 100% gain if we put in account that would not use the same again for the window installation and the ram backup which would usually work at around 30gb loss if the system got at least 8gb ram. In reality it is only the equivalent of another £10 more for a true double the space. Well, there is who understand and who does not in this world, who does can be privileged to hold the whip in hand.

If you only need 120GB (or about 80-90GB after a version of Windows is installed and updated with a few small programs) of course that is all you should buy.

But if you need more then it's a 60 percent increase in cost for a 100 percent increase in capacity. Which is a far better deal when it comes to SSD drives as they are typically small, and most everyone ends up needing more than they realise!

Also consider that many 240GB drives are faster than 120GB ones even of the same 'series'. So more capacity isn't the only thing you get even on entry level drives.

All these things should be considered when buying a low end SSD. I buy PC parts based on their bang per £, rather than their outright low cost. It seems more logical to me.

£24.99 seems to be the low price point for a 120GB.

Once you got 240GB you've more options and usually within +/- a few £.

Also, if you only need 120GB, then your 240GB represents a 60% bump in cost.

I have a full license.

Thank you. What about the drivers? Does windows automatically search and install those?

He might be right if as an example his hhd might have been freshly FULLY formatted but obviously that sort of speediness does not last long (usually days) compared to an ssd. Anyway, integral !!!! LOL

Post links NOW or I'm eating my CAT RIGHT NOW

Just found out what's WRONG with this Integral - yes it has about 450MB/s BUT just for about 1-2 SECONDS - then speeds are like SLOWEST 2.5" 5400rpm HDD!!!

Basically - my MacBook Pro 2011 boots up in almost THE SAME TIME as classic HDD!!!

RUBBISH!

EDIT: Now that I have a proper keyboard to type on...

1. Take old drive out, put in a jiffy bag in a cupboard. It's your safety net, you have no worries once your old drive is stored safely. (this is specific to computers where only one drive can fit, if you can fit more, just unplug it)
2. Put new drive in, put Windows CD in and turn it on.
3. Follow instructions. Windows 7 figures things out for itself pretty well.

Nothing can go wrong with the old drive disconnected, it is exactly as simply as ^that.

They're usually set to boot from the CD but if not, keep tapping F12 immediately after you switch it on for the 'temporary boot order' menu

You definitely need a screwdriver small enough...
You definitely need to find a guide to help with which screws to undo (ifixit is mostly very good)
It helps to still be able to Google while your main rig is down

You should run Belarc before taking the old drive out and save the report somewhere, it has your licence keys and other useful audit-type info

Get on with it tho, Win10 is only free to end of this month... (you can go back to 7 but get the Win10 on there so you have claimed your free licence!)

Do you have an upgrade or full license for Windows 7 as it makes a difference sometimes.
Keep in mind that you also have an option to go straight to Windows 10 for the next 7 days.

Very simple procedure for me but not that simple to explain like that as the drive will need to be initialized first of all. I suggest to google it and you should find plenty info. Please do not hesitate at any stage to PM and will do my best to help

I bought this a couple of days ago but to afraid to put it in. Can anybody advise me please on how to do a clean install of Windows on this drive?
My desktop is running Vista and I want to swap the HDD to SSD. I want to install windows 7 on the SSD. I've got windows 7 iso on a disc and a license key.
How do I start the process, what order do i go in, do the drivers install automatically?
I don't know much about computers so any help would be appreciated.

Got one of these as a boot drive for my pc,as well as the main games I play.

Will not complain! Obviously not in league with a 950 Pro but it does what it says on the tin.

Whilst i agree with what you are saying in essence (even 240gb is too small these days), this type of drive would be ideal for an ubuntu/debian set up on a laptop

My main rigs have 850's but i would happily throw this in an old lappy

seems very obvious that you will never became a millionaire like me, lol

Was gonna buy a 240GB version of this for £50, but picked up a Kingston UV400 240Gb for £40 new and sealed off ebay. So do look around, the low end SSD market is saturated these days with loads of similar performing models for low prices.

there is plenty from time to time in a 240gb format at less than £40. 120gb does not makes sense anymore

Have had one in an 8 yr old laptop for 3 months. Has transformed it into a very usable Win 10 machine

My memory shipped mine (500 gb) from the uk not Switzerland and I paid for express dispatch and it came next day via recorded delivery....superb drive

Don't buy the 240gb off ebay from mymemory. But directly. Check the price difference

It is a good price for a 120Gb SSD. However it is normally this price at MyMemory so not a really a deal.

anyone know of any known issues with these drives? and do my memory ship from UK?

I have an Samsung 840 i got few years back running my Macbook is this one any better?

Great boot drive, I have a 120gb as my boot drive for my gaming PC, running dual boot window 7 and 10 64bit

MM5FB code may still work, I can't check if it works as I'll end up buying one.

I've got these... great drives... clearly not for the samsung evo 850 pro person.. but a great drive nevertheless..

Hi popeye1
You've posted this as an instore deal. Don't think My Memory have stores (but if I'm wrong can you let us know which store it was), but if it's online do you have a link? Thanks