Worth stating that these are for Shimano freehub only. Great deal OP too, many thanks.

Have done, Thank you.

Hot

Be warned, these can be an absolute pig to mount tyres on.

I have some of the older version 2014 and they are very difficult but they did change the rim design on the inside on the later models to fix this issue.

Glad to hear they changed the design. I too have the 2014 version and tyres were actually impossible to remove. Had to resort to sawing the original wire treaded tyre off!! Folding tyres I have now are no way near as bad but still require tyre leavers.
Nice wheels other than that though :-) Tempted by this deal if they have sorted that issue.

In before someone says they can buy three bikes for that price...

I have the 2013 version of these and they are rock solid. 1000's miles and still strong and almost true. Tricky to remove the tyre is an issue I tihnk they have sold.

I have a pair of Mavic Cosmic Elite also and these are not as good, feel heavier at higher speeds, but for £100 you are laughing.

if you are with british cycling you can get 10% off, probably wont be able to use the mid 16 code but will save you a bit more.

Push tyre bead into the well of the rim all the way around with the tube very lightly inflated. You start at one end moving your hands apart. Cable ties can help prevent the tyre moving if necessary. With the slack created the tyres usually just slide on. Once you have the tyre on the rim just push in the edge all the way around to make sure you haven't trapped the tube. Be thankful your tyre doesn't come off the rim while you're doing 30 mph.

With the greatest respect I know how to change a tube.

If you did any research you'll see a bunch of posts about the problem (which may have been corrected for 2016). Including people stating the same here - it's not technique, it's a manufacturing issue.

Any idea how to tie shoe laces?

ditto The_Hoff

Changing the tubs on my carbon rims is quicker than clinchers my 2014 team 30s. Glad it's fixed on later model.

I had the same on my older team 30's, broke all my tyre levers in the process too :-(

I have the 2014 version and whilst changing tyres was a major pain it wasn't impossible - I even managed to do it at the roadside once. Good tyre levers and some care a must.

The wheels are pretty decent in my opinion - mine have done about a thousand mile and no issues.

Completely depends on your tyres too. Obviously they wouldn't release a wheel where it was literally impossible, but they're a royal pain in the ****.

How does a wheel feel "heavier" at higher speeds? The primary reason for lighter wheels is acceleration and climbing, once you're up to speed the only difference should be the aero effect upwards of 20mph.

That is given the same rim depth to avoid side winds etc.

I've got R501 on my winter bike, Cosmic Elites on my training bike and RS81 on my best bike. Barring slight differences in the areas I mentioned, if you blindfolded me once riding I'd have no idea one way or another.

I also have Cosmic Elites and RS81s...with Shimano Ultegra hoops on my winter bike...lighter wheels certainly come into play on hill climbs and my route is quite hilly ...find the RS81s are the best overall...shod with Conti 4000 sii ....waiting for the price of the new Michelin Power Comps to be more competitive as I'm really impressed with the reviews.
Here's hoping for a decent summer for some enjoyable cycling.

Yeah, running the same rubber on mine.

The Mich do look good from the write-up I read, also interested in the Vittoria Graphene stuff.

My bike came with a Fulcrum Racing Sport CX wheelset. Anyone here offer any advice as to whether these Vision Team 30's would be an upgrade?

Your bike has CX specific wheels for wider tyres, greater strength and maybe also disks, this deal is on Road wheels...and cheap ones at that. Lighter wheels spin up faster making starting or accelerating easier but you'll need to spend upwards of £300 to begin to notice a difference. A much easier upgrade is to buy quality tyres which can be up to 300g lighter, if you don't CX or off road your bike (and I guess you don't based on your post) then get some Michelin Pro4 Endurance V2's from CRC including inner tubes. They do a pair for about £45 delivered, they have low rolling resistance, excellent puncture protection and very low weight.

Check out this link to learn more.

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/michelin-pro-4-endurance-v2-2015

I'm currently in the process of upgrading the stock wheels that came with my Boardman Road Team Carbon 2014 (Mavic CXP 22 rims with unbranded hubs).

Would these be the best bang for the buck? I'm currently running 25mm Conti 4000IIs tyres and am trying to decide whether these, or something like the Fulcrum Racing 5 LG CX Wheelset @ £150 may be better? FWIW, I'm a fairly heavy rider (95kg).

Any advice would be very gratefully received!!

Be aware, if you get a puncture, you will never get the tire back on the rim. I had to buy a special tire lever as these are so tight (too big to take out). Also if you intend to use through the winter, I've been through 2 free hubs in 18 months and they can't be serviced, a replacement is needed and no one has stock.

Otherwise a good price.

CX is for cyclocross, so if your referring to the "Fulcrum Racing 5 Road Wheelset" then do it! it will be a major upgrade over the 2kg+ mavic things... Personally I would shell out another little more for Campagnolo Zondas.

With the greatest of respect I often see people moaning about how things don't work when all it needs is a slight change to how the task is done. People often complain Schwalbe Marathon plus tyres are impossible to fit, but I find them easy.

As said earlier. They sorted that in the newer design. Unless these are the older design but I doubt it.

They were that bad they redesigned the wheel and offered replacements if you contacted the retailer that you bought the bike/wheels from.

Surely saying "People often complain Schwalbe Marathon plus tyres are impossible to fit, but I find them easy." depends on the wheel?

The following link is, in my view, one of the best informational videos about the cost of spending money on a bike vs the return in terms of performance, also check out Durianrider, he's a bit of a c**k but has a couple of videos comparing cheap bikes with expensive bikes. In a nutshell you can upgrade all you want but there is nothing better than getting fitter, lighter, eating correctly and spending time in the saddle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF4MIEkIBZs

And his Mrs is ridiculously fit...

Pretty irrelevant if they've fixed the issue with this MY, but demonstrates how problematic this is.

Doing that in the driving rain covered in brake dust without levers (even with levers its ridiculous), copper wire and possible dim lighting, no thanks. Friend of mine had these which is why I was aware of the issue, P-X replaced them in the end.

There is that.......

Go Crazy buy these tubs, average reviews at £1k but at £300 they've got to be worth a go, take your bike to a good LBS with a good wheel guy, get them checked, adjusted and fitted with some tubular tyres, you will notice a difference.

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/22419/FSA_RD488_Carbon_Road_Wheelset

Do you have a set? Interested to hear your views... could be tempted.

Would you say the Fulcrum Racing 5 LG would be a better option that the Vision Team 30s? Many thanks!

I can't compare these wheel but with regards to the Fulcrum 5 CX vs non CX the only difference is that the sealed bearings have a seal on both sides with the CX version. I've had the non CX version and with winter riding I ended up needing to replace the bearings sooner than I would have hoped. Go for the CX version if the price is good.