Because they don't spend millions on advertising explaining things like "intelligent molecules".

You're just assuming a difference based on price and advertising.

No more and no less.

But it's your money, or more to the point, your money is their money.

Wouldn't stick this in my own motor, but heat anyway...cheap!

good deal - my car takes the 5w40 which I got last time for £17 ish - great if you have an older car

Because they don't spend millions on advertising explaining things like "intelligent molecules".

Just when I needed some oil. Thanks :-)

Use fully synthetic so its not really a saving vs a premium brand on this deal for me (not BOGOF), but being the blood of the car, i wouldn't touch budget stuff. I get the likes of QX now have some decent manufacture ratings, but still wouldn't give me the confidence it was 'as good'....more so just being a ECP own adopted brand. Re-seller vs firm with 75years+ in the game is a no brainer and I'd happily pay more for the likes of Castrol Edge/Mobil 1 as least know part of my premium would be with better additives, likewise I'd always spend a few pence more at the pump with proper premium fuel

again, we know about this deal.

wish we was all weekend millionaires like you.

You're just assuming a difference based on price and advertising.

No more and no less.

But it's your money, or more to the point, your money is their money.

You are a marketing mans wet-dream.

premium petrol do you mean like high octane? its only needed for high compression motors or if running high boost to stop detonation (pinking) i think this oil is decent i run it in a forged motor with regular changes not had a turbo or engine failure

Thanks op

"The promotion entered is invalid or has expired"

Maybe, but you could apply that to anything – theres still a spectrum of quality between things and rather be in the majority. I wouldn’t really use cheap chinese tyres that will prob long well outlive a premium soft rubber compound one just because it checked boxes on meeting safety standards either..both do the same job mind


Thanks for the heads up, I’ll be more weary of those around me….will prob invest in one of those personal attack alarms to be on the safe side, may enrol in some self-defence classes too – deffo no more walking alone when it gets dark


I flip the oil twice a year too - overkill…probably. Get base fuel is probably the same all round regardless of brand as needs to meet a min spec, but any car I've driven ran/runs better with a premium (yes to your q) higher oct fuel – understand it’s all additives you pay for…but I’ll take the minor differences it makes/claims

I get most people also not bothered about performance etc too but these rolling stats demonstrate difference in just a few of the diff premium brands: http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/tuning-andamp-upgrades/81877-supermarket-vs-branded-petrol.html

So taking all that in, and purely out of interest, what do you drive?

There was something about this oil early 2015, where they were marking it to meet two different specs - which would have been impossible. Hopefully they put it right.

Will see if I can find the relevant article.

Edit...here it is...seems it was sorted:

vls link:

http://www.ukla-vls.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/vls010125-publication-as-at-11-02-2016.pdf

and

http://www.ukla-vls.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/vls010124-publication-as-at-11-02-2016.pdf

Damn good deal, would buy if I needed it.
I don't care for all the debate going on about this rubbish, if it says "5W-30" then it's good enough for me.
Heat.

Unless you're running a high performance vehicle or always drive to the limiter, I highly doubt buying the best oil will make much difference. As long as the oil meets manufacturer specifications and is of the right grade.
In my motorbike that redlines to 11k+, oil matters, even then a 19 year old bike with oil technology from 2005+, I can still buy budget knowing that the oil is better than what is recommended for a 1997 bike.
@heada is right. marketing dream right here.

heat

Any good deals for a C4 5w/30 grade oil - used for Renault diesel

Current daily is a tuned e60 530d, toys are a few old mk1 golfs (1.8gti/g60/2.0gti) and have one more...but rather not say what

Hi - what the DIY like on an e60 - I drive a e65 which is a little older than yours and I am getting feed-up with not being able to fix parts as they have to be coded at BMW (just a little bit of an electrical nightmare)

Its not too bad, main headache is everything is usually buried so loads of bits need outing for access. Code readers kinda a must due to amount of sensors involved, but for home use, the iphone and the carly app isn't a bad one for quick diagnostics/code clearing. Not needed dealer intervention yet, but a few jobs have lead to borrowing a bit of ramp time. Cant say i expected to keep it this long mind as much prefer much older cars, but its a decent little motor and after being fairly petrol biased...really liking the dirty diesels

yep - last cars 2 x e39 525d (180000 miles) and a 530d and now a 730d (I have the laptop bmw software which is v good but you can not do everything - IE the steering sensor is playing up , can not buy a new one as the part is different and has to be programmed by BMW and they have to set up the suspension at the same time (about £1000)) - I am living with it!

Gotta say i have a laptop/inpa/cable but really cant along with it :smiley: Guessing that's the steering wheel sensor issue on active steering...fairly common on e60s too - seems there is a trick to take apart and clean the disk which looks simple enough and worth a punt. I have seen the option to calibrate it on a diagnostic tool too (launch 431) so prob worth looking into whether it can be reset to start with (Inpa poss??) You looked on real oem to see if any part number superseded it or EbayUSA as they seem to have everything readily available. Thankfully not got self leveling suspension myself, so swapping that all out was fairly hassle free for me...prob spent a painful 1k too mind (only mid range too LOL)
Not sure if you have ventured down the remap route, but there's a hidden demon in these lumps - good 50-60hp and a shed of torque being held back on stock, no mods :wink:

Suprised you cant get dealer level diagnistics on your laptop for your BMW.
I've got dealer level diagnostics (Mongoose) (Jag X350 twin turbo diesel individually performance remapped then remapped again once the methanol and nitrous was added) and can program all modules/air suspension, code keys and everything else a dealer can do Had to get someone in Belgium to set it all up leaving it on overnight was all done by next morning.
Try the BMW forums someone will be able to help I'm sure.
Also have a look through here for dealer level diagnostic/programmer
http://m.obdtool.co.uk/product/list?searchKey=bmw

We go to Santa Pod Racetrack (who cares if its a 450 mile round trip!) 2 or 3 times a year.Anyone on here wanting to race their cars modified or not check out http://www.rwyb.co.uk/dates.php
Next event for the group I go with is 7th May if anybody else fancies a cheap day out to race as fast as you like

Not a particularly effective comparison: the quality of the tyre performance and the longevity is something that you can actually feel when behind the wheel and measure between changes. The ability to assess and analyse the content of engine oil and its characteristics before and after use are not something that is possible for the vast majority of users to do - and I mean well beyond the 6th decimal point of 99.%.

Closer would be sausages: Waitrose and Sainsburys customers thought they were paying a premium for a higher quality product but it turned out they were eating the same horse meat as Lidl and Tesco shoppers. No one was analysing the meat in the sausages in their kitchen.

Anyway, it's your car and your money but, if as you say later, you are changing your oil every 6 months you might be better saving 20 quid on the cost of oil over that period and putting it towards your soft compound tyres. Longevity is one of the major claims to justify extra cost - 6 months in the car makes that premium doubly pointless.

Longevity isn't why i'd use it, but your right additives is what differs these things - here's an old test, same grades...various results: http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html#OILFACTS_001 fairly confident if you lined up 10 of todays flavors and performed a test, be a mixed bag of results too, be good to see where QX places

4k/6mths is just a preventive measure for any chance of unwanted build up, cleaner system and op to flip out oil - motors driven hard/loads of stop starts/redlines/short runs/majority town use etc - fair few modifications taking it up another 80odd bhp from stock (fingers crossed few more soon). Could use a unbranded oil or one via a market leader, poundland or durex condoms - ultimately just down to preference. May very well be a waste of money, but its ones of my past times :smiley:


Got a decent cableshack bmw cable, plus a handful of the best most commonly used software, but not put enough time in to get my head round it all. I'm fine with most diagnostics handhelds, so just need to get past learning the new interfaces. Have not coded anything new on the motor, mainly just read/erase codes but get there's a fair few options to mess around with.

Hybrid time soon, then we'll see badly she does on track - have a few buds who go reg too so be good to see how she does on the clock.

I've been eyeing the aemv2 kit but read a bit about hydrolock and think twice - prob nowt to worry about, but know a few folk with engines going boom from too much noz and fear the worst. Maybe best saved for one of the golfs :smiley: