"cheap" clean oil is better than dirty oil.
Perfectly fine for everyday commuting cars

really? would never put this in my engine.

With only 1500 miles until it's due a full service, why not use it as a top up?

What does VW spec mean? Does it pollute the world and kill old folks and our children
or is it nice and fluffy and OK?

No idea, but if my handbook for a Mitsubishi says only use oil rated to VW50501 (it does have a VW engine), then that's what I do.

Done a bit of digging and this seems to be manufactured by Rock Oils, so it's respectable quality stuff for the price.

Excellent find! Appears to be quality oil if its ultimately Rock Oil

good price and would have bought it but got a few on bogof in eurocarparts few weeks ago

This is not a joke, can I cook with this? If not why.

Definitely not going in my car even if it was £1.00 per litre. Have you seen the Viscol website. A bit bland and lacks additives.....hmm their oil could be the same perhaps. When I used to change the oil on my son's Fiesta I found the Ford garage one of the most competitive for the correct oil. Same goes for my Mazda. As cheap from the dealership for the 'recommended' oil comparing with well known brands such as Mobil, Shell, Comma (made by Esso) etc etc. Oil is oil right......maybe not. The spec says its C3 which is suitable for dpf but no way will this be going in my Mazda.

VAGs on long life servicing or have DPF need 504/507 spec.

Suitable for dpf was just a general term but as we all know for those of us 'lucky' to have a dpf on our cars and who do our own oil changes the type of C grade is very important. Saying that though my own car needs to be C1. The independant japanese specialist puts C2 in it and my local Mazda dealer recommended C3. I now change my own oil and put Comma Ecolife in it. It was the only oil other than Dexelia or Mobil 1 that still stated it was to JASO-01 rated as the manufacturer specifies. This should be equal to C1 so I am told. It's been in a year now which is pretty good on a Mazda 6 and no issues with dpf light after upgrade by Austrian Mazda agent. Ran into a bit of trouble last year and the mechanic thought it strange that my ECU or PCM had not been upgraded to help with dpf regeneration. I guess Mazda UK thought we didn't need the upgrade or the main agents who looked after the car for the first 5 years of it's life thought the upgrade would do them out of some business in dpf regen. Consequently I look after my own car now thanks to a nice little gizmo I bought off amazon. Not had to use it yet as car regens as it should now with no nagging flashing dpf light. Its come on twice in a year, I boot it, keep the revs over 2.5k and light goes off after 10 mins or so.

Don't feed the tr.........

No way would I put this in my RS4

Unless you're rattling along in an old banger, never, ever put cheap unbranded oil in your car. Just not worth the risk. BTW, any newish VW Tdi engines with suggested longlife/flexible service spec VW507, which this isn't. Just not worth the risk. An oil mistake can cost you your engine which would probably render most 5 year + old cars on the road a write-off.

Talk sh]t, eat sh^t, dress like sh%t, look like sh{t, but never, ever put sh^t oil in your car ...

Just my humble opinion ...

Don't think C3 can be the magic number to decide if an oil is suitable for your car, maybe safe with some DPF but not all.

For example similar oil from Motul and other is not recommended for a few manufacturers. Mazda being one of them

I didn't say it was. DPF ranges from C1 through to C9. Depends on your car and what the manufacturer recommends for the specification of the oil. For my car it is ACEA1 / JASO-DL1......nothing else. No other spec is mention. There are just three oils I could find when I was looking last time with names that I know, not the stuff that euro car parts sell. Dexelia oil from Mazda. Now Mazda don't make there own oil but is rumoured it is made by Total. Ecolife by Comma and Mobil 1 ESP. The differences in the oils that I can see is ash content. I wasn't very happy to find out that a japanese specialist in my home town was actually putting oil in my car that has a higher ash content. Probably doesn't make too much difference and the C3 oil recommended by Stoneacre is a lower ash content. They had just taken over the Mazda franchise and didn't seem to know what they were talking about to be honest. When I pushed the service manager he admitted they would just put in my car what they put in their Suzukis who they were main agents for which was C3. It would probably have been ok, maybe better who knows. I got a follow up call from their head office asking me why I hadn't sent my car in and told them they needed to send people on Mazda courses and obtain the correct oil that Mazda recommend before they were seeing my car.
A few years ago I took my car out of town for a service as my home town was in between Mazda agents. There was nothing wrong with the car when I took it in. The dealership also had a Mitsubishi franchise. Took the car in, had it serviced. Did a 250 mile round trip to Manchester airport and just coming off the motorway and dpf light came on flashing and straight into limp mode. The dealership said they couldn't find anything wrong and wouldn't admit to putting the wrong oil in. Came up with some dodgy story about cheap supermarket fuel, they cleaned the egr and did a dpf regen and it was ok again. I still think they put the wrong oil in it and I don't ever use supermarket fuel. I don't use garages for servicing now and do it myself. Most garages want £130.00 to change the oil on my car. Last time I did it took me just over hour and about £50.00 for oil and filter. Worst thing was trying to find the filter as Mazda had hidden it !![/quote

Jez ..I've given up the will to live !!!!!

Sorry, not much on telly tonight.

If they were selling it for 3 or 4 times the price I'd consider using it.

At this price - it's not going anywhere near my car.

I can understand DPF concerns, but there seem to be a lot of blanket ignorant statements on here because it's cheap. My dad used to change his own oil on a Ford Sierra he owned when I was a kid... he used to buy the cheapest 20W/50 oil (not even the correct viscosity) from anywhere he could get it the cheapest (we're talking £2.99 territory). He owned the car for about 5 years and put about 100,000 miles on it and it never had an engine problem and didn't use any oil (except some slight valve stem guide wear, which is normal on a Pinto engine of that mileage). Was an eye-opener for me.

Also, as long as an oil meets the proper spec, it doesn't matter what price it is. At the end of the day, it's about what's fit for purpose... if you've got a non-DPF car or an older car, this would be absolutely fine.

the 505 spec is an old one so old petrols and diesels. even the 5w40 i use in mine meets the same spec.

this is mainly a 5w30 oil for vauxhalls. no idea as why it has 1 ford car on there. the ford oil is normally c2 and thinner

Ok cheers

​Dream car!

Or do the sensible thing and don't buy a diesel. Then you don't get the hassle of all this tosh with oils. :smiley: and having to sit to wait for turbo to cool once you've reached destination etc.
Most smallish petrol cars do over 50mpg now anyways.

But can they do that at 70mph on the motorway?

But what if you don't want to drive a Dacia Somboringo, Corsa, Fiesta, Yaris, Colt etc etc. They are not too convenient for people with families, luggage, for people who tow caravans etc. In addition small cars are noisy on the motorway in comparison to larger cars. Small car manufacturers are experimenting now with small petrol turbo engined cars, Ford for one with their Fiesta. 1 litre Ecoboost. 125PS, 122mph top speed, 65.7mpg and ZERO road tax. Other manufacturers will follow if they haven't already. Unfortunately for me the car is no good for my 16' caravan but even without the caravan I would struggle with 4 adults and the boot space is a bit small for anything more than a weekend away. My wife has the Fiesta and although it is a nice car when we travel on the motorway we like to do it in comfort in car that is made for motorways and not for driving around the town. For info my car does well in excess of 50mpg when cruising in 6th gear yet still never drops below 40mpg around town no matter what the weather and how I drive it which is normally on the sporty side but not quite like I stole it.

Whilst it maybe advisory to let a turbo cool down before turning off this affects petrol engines more than diesels as they run at a far higher temperature. I do let mine cool if it's been driven hard or been on a long run but going to work and back I don't bother. This turbo cool off period may affect a lot of cars in the future if other manufacturers decide to go the way that Ford have with their Fiesta as good performance mixed with a high mpg and zero or low road tax will be inviting for all. In fact it makes no sense in buying their diesel version. I doubt however the same can be done with the Mondeo but if they can then the days of the diesel may be numbered. For now though after 4 years with my Mazda 6 and with a couple of extra services, compared to a petrol option I have still saved a bagful of money.

If I see Christian Horner buying some of this for his two red bull renaults then I may be convinced. In the meantime I will stick with what I know works because when you have unburnt diesel dripping into your sump you need some damn good oil in there to stop it from self-destructing.

best vw/Audi spec 505-507 oil price wise is Comline 5-30 fully synthetic. It's half the price, and made by Quantum (VW own oil), but batched and marketed at Comline for the trade market. It's 22 quid on eBay, I'm a mechanic who's owned VW diesels over 20 yrs. Never had an issue with anything I've owned or serviced for others. I've used rivers of it. Make sure for modern VW/Audi/Skids and Seat diesels you use the spec 507. It's awesome oil and the engine will withstand any abuse. Ta

guess i wouldn't risk cheap oil in a diesel but i used all sort of brands in my last petrol car and the cheapest oils ran best. minimal burning. (the engine type was known to 'use' oil)
and the car ran smoother with it. in fact you could tell when the service was sure when using premium oils as it was would feel out of tune. not with budget oil...

To be fair, mine is one of the last vehicles without a DPF. Seems to be running fine on this and gets an oil/filter change at the main dealer every 6 months.

Can't see the issue using it as a top up. As previously mentioned, it's actually Rock Oils, so not cheap, unbranded stuff behind the scenes.

"cheap" clean oil is better than dirty oil.
Perfectly fine for everyday commuting cars

My 05 mazda 6 uses 4 litres of oil every 6 weeks, bought it 6 months ago as a temporary replacement until I get a newer model later this year, cheaper the better for me.