This product is also available for immediate collection today in store. For details of store collection on this product, please type in catalogue number 1383771 in the search box. This Candy condenser dryer with a huge 9kg load size, can dry up to 45 shirts or 9 large towels, making it the perfect family sized machine.
Featuring sensor dry technology, the level of dryness can be selected and the machine automatically stops when this is reached, preventing unnecessary damage to your clothes from over drying.
There are four pre-set programmes to choose from, so you can select the level of dryness you require. The B energy rating reduces the amount of electricity used, helping reduce your energy costs. As this dryer is a condenser dryer, there is no need for an external vent, so you can position the machine anywhere you choose.
Dryer features:
Maximum drying capacity 9kg.
Reservoir full indicator.
3 heat settings.
Sensory drying with 4 dryness levels.
150 minute timer.
Reverse tumble option.
Electronic control.
Up to 9 hours delayed start.
Fluff filter.
Filter full indicator.
Woollens cycle.
Delicates cycle.
Freshen up cycle.
Performance:
Energy efficiency rating B.
Energy consumption: 617kWh per year based on dry cotton cycle.
Energy consumption: 5.2kWh per cycle based on dry cotton cycle.
Noise level 68dB.
Spinning performance rating C.
General features:
Size H85, W60, D60cm.
Boxed size H90, W65, D60cm.
Manufacturer's 5 year parts and 1 year labour guarantee.
EAN: 8016361874091.
Catalogue number 137/8140
Top comments
TwistedNerve
24 Nov 1512#8
as this is a tumble dryer thread, I hope nobody minds me dropping this here..
please check the serial number of your dryer if it is a hotpoint, indesit or creda, as a report came out yesterday stating there is a fire risk on models sold in the last 11 years
Was looking for a reasonably priced condenser dryer and the one on Very with the code was tempting but ended up getting a very similar model for just £175 delivered and with faster delivery than with Very which I needed
It is only a 7kg one though but I actually like the dryers with a window and so does my Grandson with Autism who loves watching the clothes go round , bless him xx
Another thing to consider with condensers is the condensation rating A 90%+ B 80%-90% A b rated machine could be letting a lot more moisture into the room
ro53ben
25 Nov 15#38
Working out those number a bit further, this Candy model uses 617kWh per year for 220 loads - that's £86.38 each year based on 14pence per kWh of electricity - 40 pence per wash load. Amazing that you're going to spend half the purchase cost on electricity each year.
In contrast, my A+++ machine will use 192kWh per year, or £27.02 in electricity - 12 pence per wash load. That's a bigger saving than even I expected, I bought the product mainly based on features and brand reputation.
Assuming you expect a product like this to last 10+ years, the electricity running cost for the Candy over 10 years is £593.60 more than the A+++ appliance. That's also assuming the Candy lasts that long and wouldn't need to be repaired/replaced.
It's clear to me that an green rated appliance costing around £800 is likely better value than a cheap one like this.
getmore4less to ro53ben
29 Nov 15#68
Standard consumption is based on 160 loads, a mix of full and 1/2 cotton drys.
with a 9kg machine that's a lot of drying, and many will do much less, especialy if they line dry when they can.
getmore4less
28 Nov 15#67
That smeg is a heat pump, manual looks very similar to beko/grundig wonder who makes it?
getmore4less
28 Nov 15#66
I was thinking more heat pump 350 beko or the grundig 420(5y warranty) will add yours to the list
Quite like Bosch to go with the washing machine but start at 499for a heat pump
We could go vented as it will be in an attached garage with outside wall access.
One thing I am doing is checking the manuals for ease of cleaning the filters and condensers, we can plumb the waste and want to stack.
I'm looking at dryers too (first time) as we've got a 2nd little one on the way in April and we only just about manage without one now.
If I understand where you are thinkin right now, you might be like me. Originally I thought about getting a £600-800 Miele, but I'm now thinking the mid market might be more cost effective. I picked a couple out that I spotted of interested, let me know if you've got a short list :-)
Basically, a higher end condenser that has should have longevity with warranty, but seems a bit more efficient than normal condensers without being too inefficient (e.g. 100kwh/£15py more costly than the A+++)
Not much more kwh than the Smeg, but £100 less and only 2yr warranty (effectively the same as you could by a 5 y warranty I suppose for £100).
getmore4less
28 Nov 15#64
We are looking for a dryers now.
The cheaper heatpumps with OK(A++ for heatpumps) efficiency are around £350/8kg/230kwh(£30-£35py)
So this is a decent benchmark for payback against a standard condencer £???/8kg/550kwh(£75-£80py)
or a more expensive A+++ 197kwh(£25-£30)
(the EU data is based on a mix of 160 full/0.5 loads do less and the paybacks are smaller)
I think there is a reasonable payback from a good condencer(£200ish) to a OK HP £350ish. at £40-£50 py
To get pay back from an OK HP to a more expensive one seems to be too big a gap. at £5-£10py EDIT: a 9kg A++ is more like 350kwh so at the higher end of the 5-10 pay back for the A+++ 9kg.
There are a couple of issues with any tech, buy the best now or buy twice as the cost comes down efficiency goes up.
The question is there another tech that can cut consumption further with a leap like the move to heat pump as it moved from comercial into the domestic market.
What all this EU data does not tell you is the eco footprint to make the machines, heat pumps machines use more electonic components refrigerant and a compressor.
ro53ben
26 Nov 15#63
Nice but ouch indeed. Certainly total overkill, especially for the dryer. I could probably argue that the washer price was worth it. In real terms, I only spent that much on the dryer so they matched cosmetically.
uczmeg
26 Nov 15#62
Nice. But ouch!
The amount of loads we seem to do per day, it probably makes sense to have the best. However that will impact what we can do with the work we're having done in the house at the moment a bit too much to justify right now.
I'm good at talking myself up models, although I doubt I'll over double my budget again. (Until yesterday I thought I'd be spending £200 as didn't know the options available.)
uczmeg
26 Nov 15#57
Okay, so what is a good tumble dryer? I guess my budget is up to £500 and obviously would like it to be quite efficient.
Everything efficient is a condenser/heat pipe based machine but I can see that being an issue with emptying the water (based on where the machine will be), so it would be good if it could be (easily) plumbed in. But it's hard to find that info when looking at what is available.
Appreciate suggestions if anyone knows anything...
ro53ben to uczmeg
26 Nov 15#59
The link below shows an number of A++ rated dryers in your price range:
I'd definitely recommend going for a condensing heat pump model. Mine collects the water in a container but also has the option of draining out of a pipe at the rear. I haven't plumbed ours in, the spinner on the washer is so good the clothes are fairly dry before they even go into the dryer, so it doesn't need emptying often. The water is also used in our "steam finish" function, so it helps to have some in there at all times.
A good tip is to go to the manufacturer website and download the user guide (instruction manual) for any product you are interested in. This will clearly explain the functions available on that model.
ro53ben
26 Nov 15#58
And to think, we got through all that, and I never once mentioned the apparently link between damp conditions and prevalence of household illness - conditions like asthma being worse in households with indoor drying :smiley:
ro53ben
26 Nov 15#55
With only one load each day, you can take 24 hours to dry it :smiley:
nige182 to ro53ben
26 Nov 15#56
True. Generally when it wasn't suitable to hang stuff up outside, you'd see jeans hanging over doors, airer in the kitchen with non-essentials hanging and essentials in the tumble dryer.
ro53ben
26 Nov 15#53
Yeah, I do a lot of eco research, have had article printed in various newspapers/magazines - it's a real point of interest for me. There's clearly a lot of "myth" surrounding tumble dryers which puts people off buying eco ones.
Traditionally it was just a hair dryer in a box, a heater with a fan. The hot air dried the clothes and the warm air was vented out the back, usually through a tube out of an open window or similar. It worked, it worked quickly, but was horribly expensive and inefficient.
Then we started moving to condensing systems, for central heating boilers too, these captured a lot of the waste heat and removed the need for an external vent. From a clothes drying perspective, they still used an electric heater you just didn't waste as much of its output - they were much slower though. It was quicker to vent the moisture than it was to condense it. People moaned that these new eco dryers were rubbish and took ages.
Now we have heat pump based systems which are massively more efficient, the electric guzzling heater has gone. The end result is a significant increase in efficiency and faster clothes drying. A+++ drying is just as fast as A+++ washing for sure, although those 30 degree wash programmes can be rather slow.
I'm reliably informed that the average household (presumably 2.4 children) does 5 wash loads each week. I guess bedding, towels, whites, colours and misc. You can try and cram all these into one "wash day" and complain if the eco appliance takes too long for your schedule. Alternatively, you can do one load a night, overnight and it's all ready when you wake up. No pressure, easy and efficient.
nige182 to ro53ben
26 Nov 15#54
That sounds reasonable to me, I would imagine 2+ children would be at least 4 washloads a week. I know growing up in a 2.4 household it was a clothes washload almost every weekday plus a whites and bedding load at weekends, so probably 7 washloads a week on average. When we are talking that much washing you need to dry and dry quick, and efficiency per load really does add up quick as well.
nige182
26 Nov 15#52
True the same energy is used to dry them no matter the length of time, however if the water re-condenses in the same room, that energy goes back into the room again, if not then it is lost through openings which would suffer residual heat loss anyway, hence my thinking that a slow air dry, in a non-living area, may not cause a difference to heating required for the room to maintain temperature. However I am glad we are now on a 'may' do a better job as it seemed inconclusive even in those articles I referred to, the general advise was to air dry but there was no firm conclusion anywhere.
Obviously this all depends on individual house setup really and what is viable, some people store their dryer in a garage, which I would assume to not be air tight and to be unheated most of the time, if air drying in that space is viable then that is surely better. Equally if the dryer is in a room central to the house setup, ie. all walls are internal to other rooms, then I think the dryer is the winner.
The discussion has been fun though, you are clearly informed and have looked into it, you are definitely right with the Science which doesn't lie but other factors can affect the results in a real world test. Unfortunately I can't find any firm analysis supporting one view over the other, the best I can find is advice from so-called 'green' institutions.
ro53ben
26 Nov 15#51
We're definitely on the same page, but different paragraphs. The length of time required to dry, whilst a variable, is somewhat irrelevant. The energy required to vaporise the water is a content and can only come from one place - residual heat in the room. If this heat is being provided artificially, i.e. not from sunlight, then an efficient tumble dryer may do a better job.
Changing the subject, I'm amazed by the amount of lint my new dryer catches. Is this normal? Or will it decrease after items have been tumble dried a couple of times? We've never really used a dryer before now and had stuck to air drying.
nige182
25 Nov 15#50
It has just occurred to me ro53ben, that our difference of opinion over the efficiency of air drying may be occurring because of assumptions in location of air drying and time taken to dry. If we assumed that air drying clothes was as fast as tumble drying (or at least of a comparable nature, say by hanging clothes directly over a radiator), then yes there would be a significant reduction in room temperature which I agree with completely as you would be rapidly vaporising approx. 2kg of water in a confined space, that would not have time to condense again naturally and that is likely in a living area.
However if you are airing clothes in a utility room say, or bathroom, or even conservatory, they will take at least 24 hours to dry, but this also means the heat being used to break the hydrogen bonds of say 100g of water at a time is all that is missing from the air, it will naturally condense again on cold surfaces like an external wall or window or escape through vents (as heat in the air would anyway). Of course if it is condensing again inside you do risk damp and mould which are not good.
I think what I am trying to get at is that if you have an area suitable for slow air drying and can handle the wait, such as utility room (ideally vented), then that would be my choice route, nothing I have read makes me think otherwise. However a tumble dryer is going to be more efficient than hanging clothes over a radiator in your living room or bedroom.
Ah, I was typing this before your last reply appeared, I think we may be on the same page now.
Edit: Just rephrased a small part as it sounded odd when I read it back.
ro53ben
25 Nov 15#49
For sure, in a hermetically sealed environment, the energy put in and the energy that comes out must be equal - but clearly it isn't. The evaporation will cause humidity which, in most cases, results in the operator opening the window. Most of the latent heat is lost, in many cases people lose even more than that as the window is left open longer than required.
Ultimately, drying clothes requires energy. That energy arrives in the form of heat, has to come from somewhere and is usually lost during the process and need to be replaced. If the heat is replaced by a central heating radiator, that process is somewhat less efficient than a modern tumble dryer. A dehumidifier could help, it gets warm during the condensation process it creates replacing that which is lost, but at that point you're creating nothing more than a room sized condensing tumble dryer which would be significantly less efficient than a sealed appliance built specifically for the purpose.
I have no doubt that an airing rack in the spare room would be more efficient than this B rated dryer, but it's not going to be akin to an A+++ device.
nige182
25 Nov 15#48
I actually can understand all that. Hydrogen bonds breaking in liquid water is the separation of individual molecules of H2O (ie. water) from each other, that is exactly what turns water liquid into water vapour. The point is that it does increase the water content (or H2O saturation if you prefer) of the surrounding air in the process, when this more saturated air then meets a cool surface, say glass, the bonds reform and this is visible by increases in condensation, it can also be cause for potential mould. Obviously this is a negative point which is why you shouldn't do it in unventilated rooms really anyway, but the point is that the heat does turn the water into vapour. Since we know energy cannot be created or destroyed, this means that as the water molecules reform their hydrogen bonds, they give off heat, this heat is still on the inside of the room unless you have opened a window or door. Hence heat has not disappeared, though I can see where you are coming from, while the bonds are in their broken form there is slightly less thermal energy, however this is reversed as soon as condensation forms. Due to the slow speed that clothes dry on an airer, it is hard to measure if this has any real impact to the temperature of a room and hence to the heating requirements.
Obviously there were solutions on my original Guardian link, such as a dehumidifier by the airer, however you then weigh up if a dehumidifier or tumble dryer uses less energy.
ro53ben
25 Nov 15#47
Worth noting that this exact bit of physics is used in your refrigerator or freezer to cool your food.
Liquid runs through the pipes in the food compartment and takes in heat energy. This causes it to evaporate inside the pipe, making the pipe cold in the process. This liquid vapour is then pumped the grill on the back of the device where it is compressed back into a liquid. As this happens, the heat is released into the room. The grill on the back of the fridge is warm to touch, the back of the fridge gets icicles - that's how much latent energy you can get in a small amount of liquid.
The exact reverse process is used in a heat pump, which is why they are so efficient at heating.
ro53ben
25 Nov 15#46
I'm sorry, you're wrong. The true two word answer is "hydrogen bonding". The heat doesn't go into the water vapour as heat energy, the heat is used to break the bonds between the water molecules. It's a bit like splitting up two magnets that are joined by opposite poles - it requires energy to split them up but, once you do, the ends of the magnets do not warm up as a result. You've used that energy to break an invisible barrier.
It's exactly the same as sweating, where heat energy from your skin is used to directly break down the bonds in the water on the surface of the skin. Once the bond is broken, the vapour molecule drifts away. It doesn't take warmth with it, that heat energy was lost as the bond was broken. It's what we call an endothermic reaction, the exact opposite to an exothermic reaction which would give out heat.
I appreciate this is a difficult process to understand, we didn't all study thermodynamics.
To summarise, the heat DOES magically disappear but it doesn't leave the room - until you open the window - it's converted to another form of energy and trapped within the molecular bonds.
nige182
25 Nov 15#45
Yes it does, but the heat doesn't magically leave the room, it is in the room, in the water which is now vapour in the room. Until the vapour escapes the room through a window, door etc, the heat is still present in the room. What happens when the water has turned to vapour? It spreads evenly through the room, much as the hot air was originally.
Sweating is similar but different, because the heat goes from our body and the air into the sweat on our skin, that vapour then goes outwardly into the atmosphere where it spreads, hence we cool. In terms of clothing this means heat from the air AND clothes going into the water and then the vapour spreading into the room.
ro53ben
25 Nov 15#44
I'm sorry, this is entirely incorrect. Drying clothes always takes heat from its surrounding. This is due to the latent head of vaporisation.
A example of this in nature is sweat. Our body sweats when warm to allow us to cool. As the skin dries, heat is taken away by the process and cools us down. Likewise when you come out of a swimming pool, even on a warm day, you may get goosebumps as you dry and the heat is taken away. In the case of drying clothes, the heat can only be taken from the room. In a nice sunny room, that heat can come from the sun, but arguably we can use the washing line on nice sunny days. We're talking about the rainy days here.
When a tumble dryer is on, it uses excess heat to dry the material artificially quickly. On an old inefficient dryer, this comes from an energy intensive heater. On a modern dryer, this comes from a highly efficient heat pump. For the former, your central heating boiler (if a condensing model) is likely to be more efficient than the dryer's heater - so you're better off using a rack and a radiator in the spare room. For the latter though, a heat pump will always be more efficient than a gas fired boiler.
As a general rule, a large majority of installed tumble dryers will be less efficient than your central heating - hence the advice from MSE. The Guardian/EST advice points to using "sunny rooms" which doesn't require your central heating.
In short, if you're drying your clothes in a room that is heated by a gas fire, electric heater or radiator, you're considerably better off with a modern tumble dryer.
ro53ben
25 Nov 15#42
Sure, washing lines are great, but we live in the UK and they are rarely of use - maybe 3 months a year on dry days if we're lucky?
It's often overlooked that drying clothes on a rack indoor isn't free - it slowly takes heat out of the room. This heat needs to be replaced by your central heating. If you have gas central heating, with a modern condensing boiler, this is quite efficient. But not as efficient as that provided by the heat pump found in a modern tumble dryer.
In none technical terms, it will cost you ~12p/load to dry in an A+++ tumble dryer but it may add 15p to your central heating bill if you put it on or near the radiator.
nige182 to ro53ben
25 Nov 15#43
Drying clothes on an airer doesn't technically take heat from a room, it does add moisture though, what effect this would have on your comfort and impact to your heating bill is difficult to measure. On the flipside, in support of a tumble dryer, when the dryer is on, it generates heat, which arguably could mean setting the thermostat lower for the room it is in and reducing your heating bill, however that is assuming it is in a heated room.
Still it is a difficult thing to measure so a quick Google revealed two links very quickly, for a quick answer with no supporting discussion, Money Saving Experts says "An airer is better because tumble dryers use a lot of energy." and for a bigger discussion, The Guardian has gone into quite some depth including a response from the Energy Saving Trust "As much as possible, try using drying racks in sunny rooms so the tumble dryer doesn't have to be used.".
nige182
25 Nov 15#41
If you want to be eco friendly, you should really hang your washing on a line to dry, using a machine only when you absolutely need to eg. someone in the household had an accident and you need to wash and dry quick, or you have unexpected guests and need more bedding dry, etc. and to further that eco view, you should get a used one and run it into the ground rather than buying new.
I personally hang my stuff out and use the machine maybe once a month, I got given my machine for free, it is rated Z (probably not, probably around a D or E but it is pretty old, it is supposedly an 'Eco' model but probably by name only). I think for an A+++ machine to pay back over this one if I was buying new, I would need both machines to last about 100 years or more.
Your calculations are impressive though, if you actually do 220 loads a year and if either machine lasts 10 years. I think the obvious conclusion to draw is that if you have a family with two or more children, definitely consider spending more for a good brand with a good rating. If you are just a couple or the kids are grown up, you might not need that.
newsgroupmonkey
25 Nov 151#39
If, like us, you use it occasionally, then you might as well throw the eco thing in the air.
Yes, you can pay twice as much and get one that costs half as much to run.
This is an excellent dryer. I bought one last time it turned up on HUKD and it's great. Easy to use etc. and is happy to sit in my garage (no, I had nowhere realistic to vent one, hence why a condenser)
ro53ben to newsgroupmonkey
25 Nov 15#40
To be clear, you can spend twice as much as cost less than a third to run - that's the point.
Sure, if you only use it very infrequently then it's pointless. I get that. But why buy one at all for such infrequent use?
Hopefully, this image will work now. It's a photo of the eco labels from my A+++ washers and dryer, just for reference. Dryer is on the left.
B rating looks a long way down the list these days. Used to be pale green when these ratings first came out. Typical running costs shown on the label, a great way to compare machines.
The Candy dryer in this deal claims the following:
djtrades
25 Nov 15#35
Thank you for this! Just discovered that mine is one of the affected models. :confused:
dck
24 Nov 15#34
You obviously don't pay much attention to the news. :smirk:
Anyway, Hotpoint closed its UK plants several years ago, most machines are now made in Poland.
haggisheid
24 Nov 15#33
I agree with that reasoning, it's a bit like paying another £2000 on a diesel car to get an extra 15mpg when you only do 10000 miles a year and it takes 5 years to break even, it's great to have a very economic tumble dryer, but unless you get a great deal, it will take you years to get the saving back.
nige182
24 Nov 15#32
I have never seen an A+++ one but found an A++ for £500. Of course the big question is, how much would you have to use a more economical tumble drier for it to pay back the investment? If you could get an A+++ for the same price as a B then it is a no brainer, but when you are talking hundreds more, you have to work out how much you use it and how many years it would have to last. For some people, that means buy the cheaper, less efficient model.
ro53ben
24 Nov 15#31
Tempted, but no. I reckon mine will last longer than ten of these.
ro53ben
24 Nov 15#30
Yes, you can get full green label A+++ models if you like. Above this B model there are 4 energy grades, A, A+, A++ and A+++ l
B is about as rubbish as it gets these days, hence cheap dryer but high running costs.
ro53ben
24 Nov 15#22
Here is a modern energy rating label for laundry equipment
Seems this site doesn't support Google photos URLs. #fail
B isn't even close to green any more.
SFconvert to ro53ben
24 Nov 15#29
Can you even get A rated rumble driers though? There used to be some available but they only achieved this by taking about 8 hours to dry your washing, presumably just by blowing air on it.
mnza
24 Nov 15#28
Really!!
Trevisparky
24 Nov 15#27
Do you get a free fire with this.
lpoolm
24 Nov 15#26
thanks
ezepze
24 Nov 15#14
A quick question for tumble dryer owners. Can one keep it in a garage where the temperatures might get quite low without any impact to the machine?
PAULTRD to ezepze
24 Nov 15#15
We keep ours in our outhouse which in not heated and we have never had a problem, however I will state the obvious and say that a condenser machine like this (and ours) will hold water in both the tank and some of the internal pipes. This in short means that if you do not empty the water out of the machine it will be liable to freeze in the winter and this could crack the tank and/or the pipes as well as causing damage to the condenser unit. To ensure the pipes are clear of water and the condenser unit is dry it is a good idea to run the machine empty for 5-10 mins.
danielgoulding to ezepze
24 Nov 152#21
Should be fine, unless it gets down to below 5 degrees in there and you try using a condenser dryer like this one. From the bottom of the Argos link (and I've seen the same info elsewhere, I've been eying up dryers for a couple of weeks): "If this appliance is installed in an unheated, cold room (for example: conservatory, annex, shed or garage) the optimum ambient storage temperature must be 5°C or above. If placed below this temperature the appliance performance will be considerably affected and in some instances may not operate at all until the ambient temperature rises above 5°C."
Makes sense really, condensation is dependant on temperature! A vented dryer would be fine.
lotsofbargains to ezepze
24 Nov 15#25
We have always kept ours in the garage without any problem.
MeesterX
24 Nov 152#24
I was thinking of doing the same but wasn't sure she'd fit. How big is your mother in law?
biggysilly
24 Nov 15#23
:confused: Thanks for that mine is on the recall :confused:
bestestbud85
24 Nov 15#16
Which one would people recommend this or a vented?
ro53ben to bestestbud85
24 Nov 15#20
i wouldn't recommend either, to be honest. Vented dryers are very inefficient and, despite being condensing, this one has a poor energy rating. B doesn't really cut it these days and will be a lot more expensive to run than a more efficient model.
ro53ben
24 Nov 15#9
Scary to think I could have bought TEN of these for what I just spent on a Miele!
James_Polarbear to ro53ben
24 Nov 152#19
Send back the miele then and get the ten! Imagine how much drying you could do then! Also your house could look like a launderette which I hear is a good look
EMtart
24 Nov 15#18
I checked both my Hotpoint and my mums Indesit tumble dryers last night on the recall site here and both are affected. I had to register them and now awating an engineer to fix them. God know how long that will be .
cmorebutt6969
24 Nov 15#17
Don't buy it better ones coming up black Friday by other retails
Chouman
24 Nov 151#11
The Hotpoint referred to by kris1234 can handle only a 7kg load, so not really a direct comparison.
Good price for this one and I was tempted as we bought a 9kg washing machine and our existing 7kg tumble dryer can't handle a full load. Downside is that there's no reverse tumble, so clothes will be more likely to crease when you take them out.
ro53ben to Chouman
24 Nov 15#13
It's amazingly hard to create a 9kg load, I've yet to hit the limit on mine.
Obstinate_Person
24 Nov 15#12
Perfect, just bought one for the mother in law
ak__thug
24 Nov 15#10
Thanks, checked mine before and its on the list. Its the fibers left over from the drying tat are setting on fire so make sure you clean the filters regularly.
TwistedNerve
24 Nov 1512#8
as this is a tumble dryer thread, I hope nobody minds me dropping this here..
please check the serial number of your dryer if it is a hotpoint, indesit or creda, as a report came out yesterday stating there is a fire risk on models sold in the last 11 years
I bought this exact same model from Argos 10 days ago from my local store at this price and its still this price in store today with free delivery if you don't want to do it through Ebay Argos you can do it direct with the store.
I have used it quite a lot since getting and am really please with it so I can recommend it. :smiley:
kris1234
23 Nov 151#3
Hotpoint is made in UK and is much better choice for only £186.09 inc delivery (unbetable price, next cheapest is £229). Create new account (new email) on very website and use code 6GRRX for 10% off. If you use quidco 7% the price you paid will be £173,60.
Sorry link didn't work for some reason. Just go to http://www.very.co.uk and search Hotpoint TCFS73BGP
Opening post
Free Delivery & Free Time Slots 7-12, 10-2, 2-6 & 6-9pm
This product is also available for immediate collection today in store. For details of store collection on this product, please type in catalogue number 1383771 in the search box. This Candy condenser dryer with a huge 9kg load size, can dry up to 45 shirts or 9 large towels, making it the perfect family sized machine.
Featuring sensor dry technology, the level of dryness can be selected and the machine automatically stops when this is reached, preventing unnecessary damage to your clothes from over drying.
There are four pre-set programmes to choose from, so you can select the level of dryness you require. The B energy rating reduces the amount of electricity used, helping reduce your energy costs. As this dryer is a condenser dryer, there is no need for an external vent, so you can position the machine anywhere you choose.
Dryer features:
Maximum drying capacity 9kg.
Reservoir full indicator.
3 heat settings.
Sensory drying with 4 dryness levels.
150 minute timer.
Reverse tumble option.
Electronic control.
Up to 9 hours delayed start.
Fluff filter.
Filter full indicator.
Woollens cycle.
Delicates cycle.
Freshen up cycle.
Performance:
Energy efficiency rating B.
Energy consumption: 617kWh per year based on dry cotton cycle.
Energy consumption: 5.2kWh per cycle based on dry cotton cycle.
Noise level 68dB.
Spinning performance rating C.
General features:
Size H85, W60, D60cm.
Boxed size H90, W65, D60cm.
Manufacturer's 5 year parts and 1 year labour guarantee.
EAN: 8016361874091.
Catalogue number 137/8140
Top comments
please check the serial number of your dryer if it is a hotpoint, indesit or creda, as a report came out yesterday stating there is a fire risk on models sold in the last 11 years
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34901765 there's a link halfway through the article to check your machine
#PublicServiceAnnouncememt
Latest comments (70)
Was looking for a reasonably priced condenser dryer and the one on Very with the code was tempting but ended up getting a very similar model for just £175 delivered and with faster delivery than with Very which I needed
It is only a 7kg one though but I actually like the dryers with a window and so does my Grandson with Autism who loves watching the clothes go round , bless him xx
Only 1 left after I got mine ; http://www.applianceelectronics.co.uk/viewproduct.asp?pid=11547
In contrast, my A+++ machine will use 192kWh per year, or £27.02 in electricity - 12 pence per wash load. That's a bigger saving than even I expected, I bought the product mainly based on features and brand reputation.
Assuming you expect a product like this to last 10+ years, the electricity running cost for the Candy over 10 years is £593.60 more than the A+++ appliance. That's also assuming the Candy lasts that long and wouldn't need to be repaired/replaced.
It's clear to me that an green rated appliance costing around £800 is likely better value than a cheap one like this.
with a 9kg machine that's a lot of drying, and many will do much less, especialy if they line dry when they can.
Quite like Bosch to go with the washing machine but start at 499for a heat pump
We could go vented as it will be in an attached garage with outside wall access.
One thing I am doing is checking the manuals for ease of cleaning the filters and condensers, we can plumb the waste and want to stack.
edit:add the Beko link seen around £350(can't see one now might be a currys )
http://www.beko.co.uk/8kg-tumble-dryer-dsx83410-white
230kwh heatpump
and the grundig one 5y GTY
http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/household-appliances/laundry/tumble-dryers/grundig-gtn38250hgcw-heat-pump-tumble-dryer-white-10133741-pdt.html
If I understand where you are thinkin right now, you might be like me. Originally I thought about getting a £600-800 Miele, but I'm now thinking the mid market might be more cost effective. I picked a couple out that I spotted of interested, let me know if you've got a short list :-)
Smeg DHT81LUK (e.g. http://www.hughes.co.uk/household-appliances/tumble-dryer/smeg-dht81luk/product)
£449 with 5 year parts and labour guarantee http://www.hughes.co.uk/images/smeg5yrdeS956a.pdf
8Kg, A+ Condenser, 297kwh/year
Basically, a higher end condenser that has should have longevity with warranty, but seems a bit more efficient than normal condensers without being too inefficient (e.g. 100kwh/£15py more costly than the A+++)
AEG T75380AH2 (e.g. http://www.johnlewis.com/aeg-t75380ah2-freestanding-condenser-tumble-dryer-8kg-load-a-energy-rating-white/p1987156)
£349-369 after £100 AEG cashback, but only 2 year warranty
8Kg, A+, 308kwh
Not much more kwh than the Smeg, but £100 less and only 2yr warranty (effectively the same as you could by a 5 y warranty I suppose for £100).
The cheaper heatpumps with OK(A++ for heatpumps) efficiency are around £350/8kg/230kwh(£30-£35py)
So this is a decent benchmark for payback against a standard condencer £???/8kg/550kwh(£75-£80py)
or a more expensive A+++ 197kwh(£25-£30)
(the EU data is based on a mix of 160 full/0.5 loads do less and the paybacks are smaller)
I think there is a reasonable payback from a good condencer(£200ish) to a OK HP £350ish. at £40-£50 py
To get pay back from an OK HP to a more expensive one seems to be too big a gap. at £5-£10py
EDIT: a 9kg A++ is more like 350kwh so at the higher end of the 5-10 pay back for the A+++ 9kg.
There are a couple of issues with any tech, buy the best now or buy twice as the cost comes down efficiency goes up.
The question is there another tech that can cut consumption further with a leap like the move to heat pump as it moved from comercial into the domestic market.
What all this EU data does not tell you is the eco footprint to make the machines, heat pumps machines use more electonic components refrigerant and a compressor.
The amount of loads we seem to do per day, it probably makes sense to have the best. However that will impact what we can do with the work we're having done in the house at the moment a bit too much to justify right now.
http://www.miele.co.uk/domestic/washing-machines-1566.htm?mat=10039360&name=WMV960_WPS_PWash%26TDos_XL_Tronic
and this dryer:
http://www.miele.co.uk/domestic/tumble-dryers-1575.htm?mat=10039390&name=TMV_840_WP_SFinish%26Eco_XL_Tronic
Out of interest which Miele did you get?
I'm good at talking myself up models, although I doubt I'll over double my budget again. (Until yesterday I thought I'd be spending £200 as didn't know the options available.)
Everything efficient is a condenser/heat pipe based machine but I can see that being an issue with emptying the water (based on where the machine will be), so it would be good if it could be (easily) plumbed in. But it's hard to find that info when looking at what is available.
Appreciate suggestions if anyone knows anything...
http://www.johnlewis.com/search/tumble-dryers-600001119/a++/_/N-4gahZ1z0sw83?Ntt=tumble+dryer
I'd definitely recommend going for a condensing heat pump model. Mine collects the water in a container but also has the option of draining out of a pipe at the rear. I haven't plumbed ours in, the spinner on the washer is so good the clothes are fairly dry before they even go into the dryer, so it doesn't need emptying often. The water is also used in our "steam finish" function, so it helps to have some in there at all times.
A good tip is to go to the manufacturer website and download the user guide (instruction manual) for any product you are interested in. This will clearly explain the functions available on that model.
Traditionally it was just a hair dryer in a box, a heater with a fan. The hot air dried the clothes and the warm air was vented out the back, usually through a tube out of an open window or similar. It worked, it worked quickly, but was horribly expensive and inefficient.
Then we started moving to condensing systems, for central heating boilers too, these captured a lot of the waste heat and removed the need for an external vent. From a clothes drying perspective, they still used an electric heater you just didn't waste as much of its output - they were much slower though. It was quicker to vent the moisture than it was to condense it. People moaned that these new eco dryers were rubbish and took ages.
Now we have heat pump based systems which are massively more efficient, the electric guzzling heater has gone. The end result is a significant increase in efficiency and faster clothes drying. A+++ drying is just as fast as A+++ washing for sure, although those 30 degree wash programmes can be rather slow.
I'm reliably informed that the average household (presumably 2.4 children) does 5 wash loads each week. I guess bedding, towels, whites, colours and misc. You can try and cram all these into one "wash day" and complain if the eco appliance takes too long for your schedule. Alternatively, you can do one load a night, overnight and it's all ready when you wake up. No pressure, easy and efficient.
Obviously this all depends on individual house setup really and what is viable, some people store their dryer in a garage, which I would assume to not be air tight and to be unheated most of the time, if air drying in that space is viable then that is surely better. Equally if the dryer is in a room central to the house setup, ie. all walls are internal to other rooms, then I think the dryer is the winner.
The discussion has been fun though, you are clearly informed and have looked into it, you are definitely right with the Science which doesn't lie but other factors can affect the results in a real world test. Unfortunately I can't find any firm analysis supporting one view over the other, the best I can find is advice from so-called 'green' institutions.
Changing the subject, I'm amazed by the amount of lint my new dryer catches. Is this normal? Or will it decrease after items have been tumble dried a couple of times? We've never really used a dryer before now and had stuck to air drying.
However if you are airing clothes in a utility room say, or bathroom, or even conservatory, they will take at least 24 hours to dry, but this also means the heat being used to break the hydrogen bonds of say 100g of water at a time is all that is missing from the air, it will naturally condense again on cold surfaces like an external wall or window or escape through vents (as heat in the air would anyway). Of course if it is condensing again inside you do risk damp and mould which are not good.
I think what I am trying to get at is that if you have an area suitable for slow air drying and can handle the wait, such as utility room (ideally vented), then that would be my choice route, nothing I have read makes me think otherwise. However a tumble dryer is going to be more efficient than hanging clothes over a radiator in your living room or bedroom.
Ah, I was typing this before your last reply appeared, I think we may be on the same page now.
Edit: Just rephrased a small part as it sounded odd when I read it back.
Ultimately, drying clothes requires energy. That energy arrives in the form of heat, has to come from somewhere and is usually lost during the process and need to be replaced. If the heat is replaced by a central heating radiator, that process is somewhat less efficient than a modern tumble dryer. A dehumidifier could help, it gets warm during the condensation process it creates replacing that which is lost, but at that point you're creating nothing more than a room sized condensing tumble dryer which would be significantly less efficient than a sealed appliance built specifically for the purpose.
I have no doubt that an airing rack in the spare room would be more efficient than this B rated dryer, but it's not going to be akin to an A+++ device.
Obviously there were solutions on my original Guardian link, such as a dehumidifier by the airer, however you then weigh up if a dehumidifier or tumble dryer uses less energy.
Liquid runs through the pipes in the food compartment and takes in heat energy. This causes it to evaporate inside the pipe, making the pipe cold in the process. This liquid vapour is then pumped the grill on the back of the device where it is compressed back into a liquid. As this happens, the heat is released into the room. The grill on the back of the fridge is warm to touch, the back of the fridge gets icicles - that's how much latent energy you can get in a small amount of liquid.
The exact reverse process is used in a heat pump, which is why they are so efficient at heating.
It's exactly the same as sweating, where heat energy from your skin is used to directly break down the bonds in the water on the surface of the skin. Once the bond is broken, the vapour molecule drifts away. It doesn't take warmth with it, that heat energy was lost as the bond was broken. It's what we call an endothermic reaction, the exact opposite to an exothermic reaction which would give out heat.
I appreciate this is a difficult process to understand, we didn't all study thermodynamics.
To summarise, the heat DOES magically disappear but it doesn't leave the room - until you open the window - it's converted to another form of energy and trapped within the molecular bonds.
Sweating is similar but different, because the heat goes from our body and the air into the sweat on our skin, that vapour then goes outwardly into the atmosphere where it spreads, hence we cool. In terms of clothing this means heat from the air AND clothes going into the water and then the vapour spreading into the room.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latent_heat
A example of this in nature is sweat. Our body sweats when warm to allow us to cool. As the skin dries, heat is taken away by the process and cools us down. Likewise when you come out of a swimming pool, even on a warm day, you may get goosebumps as you dry and the heat is taken away. In the case of drying clothes, the heat can only be taken from the room. In a nice sunny room, that heat can come from the sun, but arguably we can use the washing line on nice sunny days. We're talking about the rainy days here.
When a tumble dryer is on, it uses excess heat to dry the material artificially quickly. On an old inefficient dryer, this comes from an energy intensive heater. On a modern dryer, this comes from a highly efficient heat pump. For the former, your central heating boiler (if a condensing model) is likely to be more efficient than the dryer's heater - so you're better off using a rack and a radiator in the spare room. For the latter though, a heat pump will always be more efficient than a gas fired boiler.
As a general rule, a large majority of installed tumble dryers will be less efficient than your central heating - hence the advice from MSE. The Guardian/EST advice points to using "sunny rooms" which doesn't require your central heating.
In short, if you're drying your clothes in a room that is heated by a gas fire, electric heater or radiator, you're considerably better off with a modern tumble dryer.
It's often overlooked that drying clothes on a rack indoor isn't free - it slowly takes heat out of the room. This heat needs to be replaced by your central heating. If you have gas central heating, with a modern condensing boiler, this is quite efficient. But not as efficient as that provided by the heat pump found in a modern tumble dryer.
In none technical terms, it will cost you ~12p/load to dry in an A+++ tumble dryer but it may add 15p to your central heating bill if you put it on or near the radiator.
Still it is a difficult thing to measure so a quick Google revealed two links very quickly, for a quick answer with no supporting discussion, Money Saving Experts says "An airer is better because tumble dryers use a lot of energy." and for a bigger discussion, The Guardian has gone into quite some depth including a response from the Energy Saving Trust "As much as possible, try using drying racks in sunny rooms so the tumble dryer doesn't have to be used.".
I personally hang my stuff out and use the machine maybe once a month, I got given my machine for free, it is rated Z (probably not, probably around a D or E but it is pretty old, it is supposedly an 'Eco' model but probably by name only). I think for an A+++ machine to pay back over this one if I was buying new, I would need both machines to last about 100 years or more.
Your calculations are impressive though, if you actually do 220 loads a year and if either machine lasts 10 years. I think the obvious conclusion to draw is that if you have a family with two or more children, definitely consider spending more for a good brand with a good rating. If you are just a couple or the kids are grown up, you might not need that.
Yes, you can pay twice as much and get one that costs half as much to run.
This is an excellent dryer. I bought one last time it turned up on HUKD and it's great. Easy to use etc. and is happy to sit in my garage (no, I had nowhere realistic to vent one, hence why a condenser)
Sure, if you only use it very infrequently then it's pointless. I get that. But why buy one at all for such infrequent use?
http://www.top10energyefficiency.org.uk/tumble-dryers
B rating looks a long way down the list these days. Used to be pale green when these ratings first came out. Typical running costs shown on the label, a great way to compare machines.
The Candy dryer in this deal claims the following:
Anyway, Hotpoint closed its UK plants several years ago, most machines are now made in Poland.
B is about as rubbish as it gets these days, hence cheap dryer but high running costs.
Seems this site doesn't support Google photos URLs. #fail
B isn't even close to green any more.
"If this appliance is installed in an unheated, cold room (for example: conservatory, annex, shed or garage) the optimum ambient storage temperature must be 5°C or above. If placed below this temperature the appliance performance will be considerably affected and in some instances may not operate at all until the ambient temperature rises above 5°C."
Makes sense really, condensation is dependant on temperature! A vented dryer would be fine.
Good price for this one and I was tempted as we bought a 9kg washing machine and our existing 7kg tumble dryer can't handle a full load. Downside is that there's no reverse tumble, so clothes will be more likely to crease when you take them out.
please check the serial number of your dryer if it is a hotpoint, indesit or creda, as a report came out yesterday stating there is a fire risk on models sold in the last 11 years
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-34901765 there's a link halfway through the article to check your machine
#PublicServiceAnnouncememt
http://www.applianceuniverse.co.uk/graded-clearance-/graded-tumble-dryers/candy-gcc590nb-9kg-b-energy-condenser-tumble-dryer/prod_424.html
I have used it quite a lot since getting and am really please with it so I can recommend it. :smiley:
Sorry link didn't work for some reason. Just go to http://www.very.co.uk and search Hotpoint TCFS73BGP
Nearly 70 bought in the last 48h.