No requirement to be a VIP member to get it at this price............
Bi-Amp: YES
Number of amp. channels: 7ch
Sound Field Program (Movie): YES
Sound Field Program (Music): YES
Sound Field Program (2Ch): YES
Sound Field Program (Headphone): YES
Sound Field Program (A.F.D): YES
Portable Audio Enhancer: YES
HD-D.C.S. (Digital Cinema Sound): YES
Digital Legato Linear: YES
Video 4K Output: YES
1080P/24P: YES
Deep Color: YES
X.V.Color (XVYCC): YES
Video Up Scaler & Converter: YES (Analog To Component/Hdmi)
Bravia® Sync™ (Cec Control): YES (One-Touch Play, System Audio Control, System Power Off)
HDMI® Pass Through: YES
3D Over HDMI: YES
Audio Return Channel: YES
A/V Sync: YES (Variable)
Assignable Hdmi Video In: YES
Assignable Component Video In: YES
Tuner with RDS: YES
Tuner Preset Channel (Sirius/Xm/Fm/Am): TTL60 (-/-/30/30)
HDMI Video In/Out: YES, 6/3
Composite Video Input: YES, 2
Composite Monitor Out: YES, 1
Optical Audio Input: YES, 2
Coaxial Audio Input: YES, 1
Analog Audio Input: YES, 4
Headphone Output: YES
USB: YES, 1 Front:iPhone/WM
DTS HD/DolbyTruHD/Dolby Digital+: YES/YES/YES
Dolby Digital/DTS: YES / YES
Dolby Digital EX: YES
DTS-ES (MATRIX 6.1/DISCRETE 6.1): YES (YES / YES)
DTS 96/24: YES
Dolby Prologic: YES
Dolby Prologic II: YES
Dolby Prologic IIx: YES
Dolby Dual Mono: YES
96kHz/24Bit PCM: YES
DCAC (Digital Cinema Auto Calibration): YES
2nd Zone Audio: Speaker (Variable) / Line (Variable, Fixed)
2nd Zone Video: HDMI
IR Repeat (In/Out): YES (1/1)
GUI (Graphical User Interface): YES
Auto Standby: YES
Receiver Dimensions (WxHxD): 430 x 172 x 329.4 mm
Weight: 10.3 Kg
Top comments
rev6
31 Jul 154#2
No foot stool?
Thoughtful
1 Aug 153#30
Who ever wrote that has little understanding of electronics!
RMS power or root mean squared is usually calculated using a 1KHz signal of constant amplitude. There is no 'bursty' nature to it at all.
The only spec that this explanation might fit is the meaningless PMPO peak music power output.
He doesn't even seem to know that 'punchy' amplifiers is more likely due to the slew rates of the transistors and not the power supply!
carburant to Thoughtful
1 Aug 153#29
This may help..
"....In the case of audio amplifiers that appear to generate more output power than input power the ‘magic’ is in the power supply which draws energy from the mains supply and stores it for use by the output electrics driving the loudspeaker(s). The mains supply (input) can be considered a constant source and thus, in terms of our amplifier energy conversion equation above the input time (Time IN) is very long, approaching infinity. Conversely, the output signal being music or speech is usually very bursty in nature, consisting of many very short duration peaks separated by long periods of much lower amplitude. Thus, the amplifier is able to produce short duration high amplitude bursts of output power, while drawing much less (but longer duration) power from the electrical mains supply...."
Got one from solihull. Anyone suggest a good set of speakers to go with this?
rev6 to seanrtkelly
31 Jul 15#5
As with anything. What's your budget?
styjp to seanrtkelly
1 Aug 15#14
Sony's amplifier are known in the AV community for having a bit "brighter" sound. I had mine matched with the wharfedales (10.5, 10.1, 9.1, 10.cm, 10DFS) which are known for their warmer sound and they match really nicely. Just my 2 cents. For little money, the Wharfedales are a great choice.You can also get a 9.1 set with a SW150 subwoofer from superfi for 300 pounds.
No8 to seanrtkelly
1 Aug 15#17
Tannoy HTS101's sound great with this amp, and not too expensive. If you buy the whole package from Richer Sounds, they will probably do you a deal.
Jay20VT to seanrtkelly
1 Aug 15#33
Dali Zensor Z1
hottopic
31 Jul 15#6
personally like q acoustics
seanrtkelly
31 Jul 15#7
I don't really have a budget, but that's the trouble. I was thinking I would just get the tannoy hts101, but then I bought I may as well spend the extra and get the q acoustics 2000i package, but then thought if I get them I may as well spend the extra and get the q7000i package, but then thought if I'm spending that much I may as well get the dali zensor 1 5.1 package, then thought the dali zensor 3 5.1 package is only a little bit more I'll get them. And so on...
I'm stuck. Might just get two bookshelfs and add to them if I fell the need. Any advice would be a big help
rev6
31 Jul 15#8
The more you go up the budget range, the more this AV will be lacking in power. I think the Zensor 3 5.1 would be a good setup. Those are terrific speakers.
pc5020
31 Jul 15#9
Ive got some tannoy tfx 5.1, sound awesome!
ministrymason
1 Aug 15#10
I've got Boston Acoustics xs and I'm really happy with the sound for under £500 all in with receiver
meherenow
1 Aug 15#11
Great amp, said on another thread, impressive stereo sound as well compared to other surround amps I've had over the years (gotta listen to music in stereo, unless it's actually been recorded in more channels....)
bfam
1 Aug 15#12
Heat
Bought one few weeks ago. Set it up with 5 x B&W M1s and 2 x CM5s. Havent tried it yet though, as I need to pick up a subwoofer cable. Can anyone recommend a good one?
I have a 5.1 set of the Dali Zensor 5 running off an oldish Yamaha amp. Sound pretty good. I had one of these Sony amps delivered (from the refurb store) but haven't had a chance to set it up yet. I reckon any of the Dali Zensor packages would sound pretty decent.
Edit
The front 2 are Zensor 5's and the sub is a E-12 or something, can't quiet remember.
Thoughtful
1 Aug 151#15
These Japanese fraudsters should be prosecuted under trading standards laws, or else given the Nobel prize for finding away around Newtons laws !
They claim a maximum output of 7 x 165W RMS a total of 1155 W yet the maximum power consumption of the unit is only 240W !
The reality is that this unit will provide an output more likely around just 20W pc rms, and that is not enough for decent surround sound.
You would be better off saving your money and avoiding this product. Buying second hand is a better option if your budget is limited, or consider one of the better sound bars.
carburant to Thoughtful
1 Aug 153#29
This may help..
"....In the case of audio amplifiers that appear to generate more output power than input power the ‘magic’ is in the power supply which draws energy from the mains supply and stores it for use by the output electrics driving the loudspeaker(s). The mains supply (input) can be considered a constant source and thus, in terms of our amplifier energy conversion equation above the input time (Time IN) is very long, approaching infinity. Conversely, the output signal being music or speech is usually very bursty in nature, consisting of many very short duration peaks separated by long periods of much lower amplitude. Thus, the amplifier is able to produce short duration high amplitude bursts of output power, while drawing much less (but longer duration) power from the electrical mains supply...."
How loud does it need to be? Most people are setting these up at home, in a small space. I have just set mine up (well replaced an old Yamaha) and it's driving two zones in two different rooms. Both rooms are around 16ftx20ft. One zone is output to a 5.1 Dali Zensor 5 set of speakers and the other to some Wharfdale Diamond's (220s I think). Both rooms sound pretty good, that's without any real tinkering. The Dali Zensors are amazing on this amp and no way would I need to listen to it on full volume. A quick play of Terminator sounded great in surround.
rob0180
1 Aug 15#18
Anyone looking at this with a view to buying a new 4K TV, please be aware it does not meet the required specification for 4K supplied through BT UHD channel, or the forthcoming sky UHD service.
Just a heads up for future proofing
pjboag
1 Aug 15#19
Was thinking of jumping for this when I saw the Sevenoaks deal yesterday, to replace my 12 year old pioneer all in one and my separates HiFi amp (18 year old Audiolab 8000A). Anyone know if stereo music is likely to be poorer through this award winning cinema amp compared to my old hifi amp?
cicobuff to pjboag
1 Aug 151#22
I think you need to ask yourself why you are replacing a stereo amp with a multi channel receiver first and foremost. Will you be using its surround capabilities? Its HDMI switching? Its network streaming?
Main problem I have found (aside the arguments that stereo amps sound better than AV receivers) with stereo amps is if you are intending to go down the network audio route. The Denon DNP-720AE which was available for £180 (I added one to my Marantz Receiver that did not have network audio capability) has now been discontinued and replaced with the barely any extra features in the DNP-730 at £300. Looking at your options any network audio streamer with a decent DAC will set you back £300+...a compromise could be with the likes of Kodi on a cheap android box or laptop with an added DAC in the mix, but not ideal....tv or laptop screen needed for display.
With that in mind, anyone interested in adding network audio to an existing stereo amp of moderate value even for just 2 channel audio would be advised to demo a receiver, even if just for two channel use.
Personally I am more than happy listening to stereo music on any receiver I have owned depending on speaker matching. Although I do use receivers for home cinema use as well, in a 5.1 setup, bi-amping the front channels in 7.1/2 receivers. I have found for my own tastes and the receivers I have owned over the years that Sony and Pioneer (usually known as bright amps) offer more detail across my Mission speakers across a range of music, than the likes of Denon, Yamaha and Marantz, which can sound muddled in definition to my ears particularly on rock/alternative.
With your ageing Audiolab 8000A if you decide not to go down the receiver route, I would advise getting it serviced/recapped or checking the pots and caps yourself as it is much revered and still on the second hand market worth a couple of hundred quid.
CHEEPSTUFFRULES! to pjboag
1 Aug 152#23
The Audiolab would probably sound better for stereo music. The analogue part of the tech has hardly changed in 50 years (the bit you actually hear), it's just the digital end that keeps getting upgrades (of a sort).
seanrtkelly
1 Aug 15#20
I like the idea of having zone 2 audio and hdmi out for another room and need the 2 hdmi out for projector and TV, and with all the 5 star reviews seemed like the obvious choice for the money.
Juat struggling with what speakers to pair with it now. I was swaying more to the q7000i package but haven't made my mind up yet
harveyman
1 Aug 15#21
I'm a proud owner of this amp and it sounds excellent through my Jamo book shelf speakers.
bluerpk
1 Aug 15#24
Would the Tannoy DC6T go well with this receiver? Demoing that speaker set today..
OK it's £1000 but it comes with ALL the speakers, including a powered sub, 4K compatible, Dolby Atmos, and THX certification! Oh & it's three times more powerful than the Sony too.
Very well reviewed, it's not on a deal atm but by the time you've bought the Sony and all the speakers, and connecting cables, you'll probably not be far short of the £1000 this complete system costs.
hottopic
1 Aug 15#26
Sevenoaks just reduced this to 299 pounds also. Seems to be a battle between these sellers..............
old_1
1 Aug 151#27
I have the STRDN1040 with the Tannoy HTS101 ...... sounds great.
Nick66
1 Aug 15#28
Don't forget that theres the Tannoy HTS201 speaker set too which gives more powerful front speakers in towers - that's the set Im getting shortly anyway.
Thoughtful
1 Aug 153#30
Who ever wrote that has little understanding of electronics!
RMS power or root mean squared is usually calculated using a 1KHz signal of constant amplitude. There is no 'bursty' nature to it at all.
The only spec that this explanation might fit is the meaningless PMPO peak music power output.
He doesn't even seem to know that 'punchy' amplifiers is more likely due to the slew rates of the transistors and not the power supply!
mikes1
1 Aug 15#32
Cold.
Not an Onkyo.
ck7312
1 Aug 15#34
Got mine linked to a 5.1 set of focal domes. Sounds awesome!
Thoughtful
1 Aug 15#35
To help match the best speakers and receivers for your listening needs, THX has established certification categories to ensure your home theater system can deliver crisp, clear THX Reference Level sound in the room size you desire.
THX Select2
THX Select2 Certified products are for medium sized rooms, up to 2,000 cubic feet in size, with a 10-12 foot viewing distance from the screen.
THX I/S Plus Systems
Certified Systems (AV Receiver + Speaker Bundle) have the power to fill a small home theater or dorm room where the viewing distance from the screen is 6-8 feet.
topss
1 Aug 15#36
Yes I know all that. I was talking about most domestic situations. Who can actually listen to THX Reference Level sound at the 'reference' level? Not many I would guess. Most people are using these set-ups at home, in their living room. At reference levels, expect a knock from your neighbours. I'm lucky in that, my set-up is in an outbuilding and we have no neighbours for about 1/2 mile. I know this isn't THX certified, but does sound pretty amazing, even at lower volumes.
Edit
I'll add that I have listened to many THX certified set-ups and they do indeed sound good. Lowering the volume and letting THX Loudness Plus compensate doesn't sound as good though. I could notice the difference.
cowboyjon
1 Aug 15#37
bought my first av receiver a year or two ago and it was between this sony unit and the yamaha rxv675
i decided on the yamaha after reading more than a few comments from sony owners regarding the unit generating a worrying amount of heat
rev6
1 Aug 15#38
THX Loudness is to improve sound quality when not at reference level, reference level is extremely loud and not suitable for a lot of households. It should boost certain frequencies so they're still audible at lower volumes, which is lower frequencies mainly.
It's not supposed to sound better than reference level :smiley:
mattclarkie
1 Aug 15#39
How do these STRDN compare to older ES models in sound quality? Is this actually an upgrade from my old 2400ES when it comes to amplification?
db129
1 Aug 15#40
Great deal. Bought from RS last week with VIP. Can anyone tell me what interconnects I need for the speaker wire to plug into the amp? Amazon links appreciated.... thanks in advance
cicobuff
1 Aug 15#41
Surprising you say that, my Yamaha RX-V675 was the hottest receiver I have owned. Thankfully it blew just 8 months after owning it and I got a replacement Pioneer VSX-924 instead, and that remains lukewarm to the touch.
topss
1 Aug 15#42
Hey Rev, that's pretty much the point I was trying to make. I was replying to the post suggesting a THX certified receiver was the way to go. My point was that to appreciate the THX certification you would need to play it at reference level (0) volume. My guess is that most people can't do that because of neighbours etc, so sort of defeats the whole point. I know THX loudness is supposed to compensate for lower than reference levels of volume, but personally I could tell the difference between that and reference level. And yes I do know it's not supposed to make it sound better, that wasn't what I was suggesting. It's supposed to, in theory make it sound just as good, but in my personal experience that wasn't the case. And that was listening to several THX certified set-ups in different environments. Maybe it's just me and my ears!
So imo it's almost pointless worrying about THX certification (I'm sure there's other advantages) unless you're able/willing to always run it a reference levels of volume.
rev6
1 Aug 15#43
I was just clarifying not just commenting on your comment but the subject.
THX isn't something I use even though I can. Audyssey does all I need. Reference would make me cry with my setup.
Thoughtful
1 Aug 15#44
Just because a THX certification means it can reach reference levels doesn't mean you have to use it that loud! It's like not buying a Ferrari because you don't want to drive it at 200mph!
Transients in film scores are not the same as music, and what is quiet at 1 Watt can suddenly jump to 100 Watts when there's an explosion.
Having that headroom is the whole point. If you can't calibrate to 0db though then you'll never know what the reference level really is, and yes it is far too loud in most cases to listen to.
topss
1 Aug 15#45
Of course not. But I would have thought the point of going to the trouble of purchasing and setting up a THX set-up, is so that you use it. The car analogy wasn't really a good one imo. I was generally referring to movies anyway and specifically to running the amp at below reference levels of volume and then expecting stuff like THX Loudness to compensate. Not only that, but a lot of people then go and buy non THX certified speakers and further don't even bother to set it all up properly. So no matter how good your amp /receiver is, it's never going to be used to any where near THX levels.
Anyway back to this Sony. I can assure you (or anyone still deciding) it's an amazing piece of kit for the money. I'm not an audiophile (I'm happy with mp3s most of the time!) but the difference between this and my Yamaha is quiet noticeable and the same sources sound way better (with everything being equal (speakers etc)). I used an Onkyo 838 for a short while a couple of months back and this sounds to me, just as good.
No8
1 Aug 151#46
I popped the blanks out of the binding posts and used decent quality banana plugs.
rev6
2 Aug 15#47
Dolby Volume and features like that can help leveling out the wide dynamic range. I use it a lot so I can hear speech at lower volumes :smiley:
bfam
2 Aug 15#48
Wish I knew that was possible last week when I cut off all the qed airloc banana plugs off my qed silver anniversary xt leads to connect them to the back of my Sony avr!
rev6
3 Aug 15#49
:confused:
No8
3 Aug 15#50
Oh dear!!
bfam
3 Aug 15#51
:disappointed:
cicobuff
3 Aug 15#52
Just for future reference, banana plugs are 'illegal' in Europe, the spacing between them is identical to that of an EU mains plug...obviously only a numpty would even consider attempting to do such a stupid thing and obviously our UK sockets differ..but most receivers sold are not direct for the UK market they are shipped for the european market so we suffer the binding post hole bungs too...which are easily removed.
bfam
3 Aug 15#53
do you think I have lost out on sound quality, or does it not make much difference?
cicobuff
3 Aug 15#54
Would not make any difference to be honest, plenty of debates about banana plugs vs connecting direct...convenience is the main advantage of banana plugs
As long as you are mindful of avoiding stray wire strand shorts across terminals you are fine.
bfam
3 Aug 15#55
Phew...what would a stray wire strand short across a terminal do? It mentions in the instructions that a single wire from inside the speaker leads should not touch the rear of the AVR too, is that the same thing? Sorry, pretty clueless with these things.
rev6
3 Aug 15#56
If anything, bare wire would sound better.
bfam
3 Aug 15#57
...blessing in disguise then! :smiley:
rev6
3 Aug 15#58
Indeed. If you don't need to unplug and move things around all the time you may as well use bare wire. Less material between the speaker and the AV.
cicobuff
3 Aug 15#59
Both could cause a short, could blow one of your channels, meaning a replacement of the output transistor at least or worse still blow something within the power supply of your amp.
learoy1
3 Aug 15#60
which ones and how much? I had focal speakers put into an old car, best sound quality I'd ever heard anywhere.
learoy1
3 Aug 15#61
does anyone know if this or the 1060 will have any audio lag? I want to output audio through this while I'm mixing tunes on vinyl decks and a mixer, any lag and its useless. help appreciated.
rev6
3 Aug 15#62
What input would you be using?
learoy1
4 Aug 15#63
phono from the mixer to the receiver I think. it's a very good pioneer mixer so not sure if there are other ways?
cicobuff
5 Aug 151#64
Why not download the user manual for the Sony and check to see if there is an audio delay tweaking option for the inputs? There most certainly is on my Pioneer VSX 924 receiver, as I am sure there would be on most modern day receivers.
Also most modern day receivers do not have a phono input, so you would require a phono preamp. *EDIT* just looked, depending on your model you may have a digital coax output, the DJM-700/750 upwards do, otherwise any receiver without a phono input will require a phono preamp which will add around another £20 to your budget.
learoy1
5 Aug 151#65
thanks for the post
it's a djm 700 so hopefully we're good. I'll do some googling for audio lag info, was just hoping someone here had experience with mixers and this receiver.
bfam
6 Aug 15#66
Finally switched mine on. Big improvement on the TV speakers! Can't hear the rear speakers too well though, must be a setting or something?
seanrtkelly
6 Aug 15#67
Depends what kind of audio you're putting into it. I would imagine if you're only putting 2.0 audio in to it only the front left and right would output audio. The rears are for surround sound with 5.1 audio.
Or if you're listening to music press the 'A.F.D./2CH' button on the remote untill it says multi stereo. That setting will output to all speakers connected.
old_1
6 Aug 15#68
I find "AFD Auto" works OK for me but I did need to set Auto Calibration a few times before I got it to my liking.
any. amplifer powerful enough to deal with any set, could be £100 could be £10000
trimpampam
1 May 16#71
why its lacking of power? in this price range here doesnt exist any more powerfull amplifiers
trimpampam
1 May 16#72
i think its minimal wattage per channel is 105w rms at 6ohms. you will get 600w per channel equivalents if your speakers will be 1omh, so mains usage is different thing
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Opening post
Bi-Amp: YES
Number of amp. channels: 7ch
Sound Field Program (Movie): YES
Sound Field Program (Music): YES
Sound Field Program (2Ch): YES
Sound Field Program (Headphone): YES
Sound Field Program (A.F.D): YES
Portable Audio Enhancer: YES
HD-D.C.S. (Digital Cinema Sound): YES
Digital Legato Linear: YES
Video 4K Output: YES
1080P/24P: YES
Deep Color: YES
X.V.Color (XVYCC): YES
Video Up Scaler & Converter: YES (Analog To Component/Hdmi)
Bravia® Sync™ (Cec Control): YES (One-Touch Play, System Audio Control, System Power Off)
HDMI® Pass Through: YES
3D Over HDMI: YES
Audio Return Channel: YES
A/V Sync: YES (Variable)
Assignable Hdmi Video In: YES
Assignable Component Video In: YES
Tuner with RDS: YES
Tuner Preset Channel (Sirius/Xm/Fm/Am): TTL60 (-/-/30/30)
HDMI Video In/Out: YES, 6/3
Composite Video Input: YES, 2
Composite Monitor Out: YES, 1
Optical Audio Input: YES, 2
Coaxial Audio Input: YES, 1
Analog Audio Input: YES, 4
Headphone Output: YES
USB: YES, 1 Front:iPhone/WM
DTS HD/DolbyTruHD/Dolby Digital+: YES/YES/YES
Dolby Digital/DTS: YES / YES
Dolby Digital EX: YES
DTS-ES (MATRIX 6.1/DISCRETE 6.1): YES (YES / YES)
DTS 96/24: YES
Dolby Prologic: YES
Dolby Prologic II: YES
Dolby Prologic IIx: YES
Dolby Dual Mono: YES
96kHz/24Bit PCM: YES
DCAC (Digital Cinema Auto Calibration): YES
2nd Zone Audio: Speaker (Variable) / Line (Variable, Fixed)
2nd Zone Video: HDMI
IR Repeat (In/Out): YES (1/1)
GUI (Graphical User Interface): YES
Auto Standby: YES
Receiver Dimensions (WxHxD): 430 x 172 x 329.4 mm
Weight: 10.3 Kg
Top comments
RMS power or root mean squared is usually calculated using a 1KHz signal of constant amplitude. There is no 'bursty' nature to it at all.
The only spec that this explanation might fit is the meaningless PMPO peak music power output.
He doesn't even seem to know that 'punchy' amplifiers is more likely due to the slew rates of the transistors and not the power supply!
"....In the case of audio amplifiers that appear to generate more output power than input power the ‘magic’ is in the power supply which draws energy from the mains supply and stores it for use by the output electrics driving the loudspeaker(s). The mains supply (input) can be considered a constant source and thus, in terms of our amplifier energy conversion equation above the input time (Time IN) is very long, approaching infinity. Conversely, the output signal being music or speech is usually very bursty in nature, consisting of many very short duration peaks separated by long periods of much lower amplitude. Thus, the amplifier is able to produce short duration high amplitude bursts of output power, while drawing much less (but longer duration) power from the electrical mains supply...."
Article here - http://www.jands.com.au/solutions/education/education-support/amplifier-power-ratings--and--other-mysteries-of-the-universe-explained---part-1
All comments (72)
I'm stuck. Might just get two bookshelfs and add to them if I fell the need. Any advice would be a big help
Bought one few weeks ago. Set it up with 5 x B&W M1s and 2 x CM5s. Havent tried it yet though, as I need to pick up a subwoofer cable. Can anyone recommend a good one?
Profigold are quite a good deal for the price, but you haven't said how long you need the cable to be!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Profigold-Skyline-PROA4110-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003654RB4
I have a 5.1 set of the Dali Zensor 5 running off an oldish Yamaha amp. Sound pretty good. I had one of these Sony amps delivered (from the refurb store) but haven't had a chance to set it up yet. I reckon any of the Dali Zensor packages would sound pretty decent.
Edit
The front 2 are Zensor 5's and the sub is a E-12 or something, can't quiet remember.
They claim a maximum output of 7 x 165W RMS a total of 1155 W yet the maximum power consumption of the unit is only 240W !
The reality is that this unit will provide an output more likely around just 20W pc rms, and that is not enough for decent surround sound.
You would be better off saving your money and avoiding this product. Buying second hand is a better option if your budget is limited, or consider one of the better sound bars.
"....In the case of audio amplifiers that appear to generate more output power than input power the ‘magic’ is in the power supply which draws energy from the mains supply and stores it for use by the output electrics driving the loudspeaker(s). The mains supply (input) can be considered a constant source and thus, in terms of our amplifier energy conversion equation above the input time (Time IN) is very long, approaching infinity. Conversely, the output signal being music or speech is usually very bursty in nature, consisting of many very short duration peaks separated by long periods of much lower amplitude. Thus, the amplifier is able to produce short duration high amplitude bursts of output power, while drawing much less (but longer duration) power from the electrical mains supply...."
Article here - http://www.jands.com.au/solutions/education/education-support/amplifier-power-ratings--and--other-mysteries-of-the-universe-explained---part-1
Just a heads up for future proofing
Main problem I have found (aside the arguments that stereo amps sound better than AV receivers) with stereo amps is if you are intending to go down the network audio route. The Denon DNP-720AE which was available for £180 (I added one to my Marantz Receiver that did not have network audio capability) has now been discontinued and replaced with the barely any extra features in the DNP-730 at £300. Looking at your options any network audio streamer with a decent DAC will set you back £300+...a compromise could be with the likes of Kodi on a cheap android box or laptop with an added DAC in the mix, but not ideal....tv or laptop screen needed for display.
With that in mind, anyone interested in adding network audio to an existing stereo amp of moderate value even for just 2 channel audio would be advised to demo a receiver, even if just for two channel use.
Personally I am more than happy listening to stereo music on any receiver I have owned depending on speaker matching. Although I do use receivers for home cinema use as well, in a 5.1 setup, bi-amping the front channels in 7.1/2 receivers. I have found for my own tastes and the receivers I have owned over the years that Sony and Pioneer (usually known as bright amps) offer more detail across my Mission speakers across a range of music, than the likes of Denon, Yamaha and Marantz, which can sound muddled in definition to my ears particularly on rock/alternative.
With your ageing Audiolab 8000A if you decide not to go down the receiver route, I would advise getting it serviced/recapped or checking the pots and caps yourself as it is much revered and still on the second hand market worth a couple of hundred quid.
Juat struggling with what speakers to pair with it now. I was swaying more to the q7000i package but haven't made my mind up yet
OK it's £1000 but it comes with ALL the speakers, including a powered sub, 4K compatible, Dolby Atmos, and THX certification! Oh & it's three times more powerful than the Sony too.
Very well reviewed, it's not on a deal atm but by the time you've bought the Sony and all the speakers, and connecting cables, you'll probably not be far short of the £1000 this complete system costs.
RMS power or root mean squared is usually calculated using a 1KHz signal of constant amplitude. There is no 'bursty' nature to it at all.
The only spec that this explanation might fit is the meaningless PMPO peak music power output.
He doesn't even seem to know that 'punchy' amplifiers is more likely due to the slew rates of the transistors and not the power supply!
Not an Onkyo.
THX Select2
THX Select2 Certified products are for medium sized rooms, up to 2,000 cubic feet in size, with a 10-12 foot viewing distance from the screen.
THX I/S Plus Systems
Certified Systems (AV Receiver + Speaker Bundle) have the power to fill a small home theater or dorm room where the viewing distance from the screen is 6-8 feet.
Edit
I'll add that I have listened to many THX certified set-ups and they do indeed sound good. Lowering the volume and letting THX Loudness Plus compensate doesn't sound as good though. I could notice the difference.
i decided on the yamaha after reading more than a few comments from sony owners regarding the unit generating a worrying amount of heat
It's not supposed to sound better than reference level :smiley:
So imo it's almost pointless worrying about THX certification (I'm sure there's other advantages) unless you're able/willing to always run it a reference levels of volume.
THX isn't something I use even though I can. Audyssey does all I need. Reference would make me cry with my setup.
Transients in film scores are not the same as music, and what is quiet at 1 Watt can suddenly jump to 100 Watts when there's an explosion.
Having that headroom is the whole point. If you can't calibrate to 0db though then you'll never know what the reference level really is, and yes it is far too loud in most cases to listen to.
Anyway back to this Sony. I can assure you (or anyone still deciding) it's an amazing piece of kit for the money. I'm not an audiophile (I'm happy with mp3s most of the time!) but the difference between this and my Yamaha is quiet noticeable and the same sources sound way better (with everything being equal (speakers etc)). I used an Onkyo 838 for a short while a couple of months back and this sounds to me, just as good.
As long as you are mindful of avoiding stray wire strand shorts across terminals you are fine.
Also most modern day receivers do not have a phono input, so you would require a phono preamp. *EDIT* just looked, depending on your model you may have a digital coax output, the DJM-700/750 upwards do, otherwise any receiver without a phono input will require a phono preamp which will add around another £20 to your budget.
it's a djm 700 so hopefully we're good. I'll do some googling for audio lag info, was just hoping someone here had experience with mixers and this receiver.
Or if you're listening to music press the 'A.F.D./2CH' button on the remote untill it says multi stereo. That setting will output to all speakers connected.
New STRDN1060 version is on offer now:
http://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/sony-str-dn1060-7-2-multi-room-av-receiver-396-45-amazon-de-2320450